Start spring lawn recovery in March or early April once the ground is no longer frozen or waterlogged. Rake out dead grass and moss, aerate compacted areas, apply a spring lawn treatment to feed the grass and kill weeds, then overseed any bare patches with a spring-formulated seed. Most winter-damaged lawns recover fully within 6 to 8 weeks with the right care.
Spring Is the Best Time to Fix Winter Damage
Our Spring Lawn Treatment combines high-nitrogen feed with weed and moss control to kick-start recovery. Apply from March onwards when grass starts growing again.
If your lawn looks terrible after winter, you are not alone. Every UK garden goes through this. Months of cold temperatures, heavy rain, frost, and foot traffic on soggy ground take a visible toll on even the healthiest lawns.
The good news is that most winter damage is cosmetic, not permanent. Grass is dormant through winter, not dead. With the right steps in the right order, your lawn can look completely different within 6 to 8 weeks.
What Is Normal Winter Damage?
Before you panic, understand what is typical and what might need more attention.
Normal (will recover on its own or with basic care)
- Yellowed or pale grass from dormancy
- Thin patches where grass has been worn down
- Surface moss in shaded or damp areas
- Worm casts scattered across the surface
- Flattened or matted grass from rain and frost
Needs attention (act in spring)
- Bare soil patches larger than a dinner plate
- Heavy moss coverage (more than 30% of the lawn)
- Waterlogged areas that do not drain within 24 hours of rain stopping
- Raised or sunken areas from frost heave
- Fungal disease patches (brown circles with darker edges)
Step-by-Step Spring Lawn Recovery
Follow these steps in order. Each one builds on the last, and skipping ahead (especially feeding before raking) reduces the effectiveness of everything that follows.
Step 1: Clear debris and rake (March)
Start by removing leaves, twigs, and any rubbish that has accumulated over winter. Then give the entire lawn a firm rake with a spring-tine rake. You are aiming to lift matted grass, pull out surface moss, and remove the layer of dead organic matter (thatch) sitting on top of the soil.
Do not be alarmed by how much comes out. A bin bag or two of dead material is perfectly normal. The lawn will look worse before it looks better, but removing this layer is essential. It blocks light, traps moisture, and prevents new growth from reaching the surface.
For lawns with heavy thatch (more than 1cm thick), consider scarifying with a powered scarifier rather than hand raking. This is more aggressive but far more effective at removing compacted thatch.
Step 2: Aerate compacted areas (March)
Winter foot traffic on wet soil creates compaction, which squeezes out the air spaces grass roots need to breathe. Push a garden fork into the lawn at 15cm intervals across any areas that feel hard or where water sits on the surface.
Drive the fork in about 10cm deep and rock it slightly to open the holes. Focus on high-traffic areas: paths across the lawn, areas near doorways, and anywhere that gets regular foot traffic. For a deeper look at the process, see our guide to lawn aeration.
Step 3: Level any bumps (March/April)
Frost heave can push soil upwards, creating uneven bumps. For minor bumps, simply top-dress with a mix of sharp sand and compost, working it into the surface with the back of a rake. For more severe unevenness, cut the turf, remove or add soil underneath, and relay.
Step 4: Apply spring lawn treatment (late March/April)
Once the grass is actively growing (you will see green shoots pushing through), apply a spring lawn treatment. This does three jobs at once: feeds the grass with high-nitrogen fertiliser to fuel spring growth, kills broadleaf weeds, and controls moss.
Apply on a mild, damp day when rain is forecast within 48 hours. The moisture helps activate the weed and moss control. Do not apply during frost, drought, or extreme heat. Read our full guide on when to feed your lawn for the complete feeding schedule.
Step 5: Overseed bare patches (April/May)
Wait at least 4 weeks after applying spring treatment before overseeding. The herbicide in lawn treatments kills new seedlings, so timing matters.
For bare patches, loosen the soil with a fork, apply Pre-Seed Foundation Feed (which has no herbicide), scatter Spring Lawn Seed at 35 to 50g per m², and keep moist for 2 to 3 weeks.
For general thickening across the whole lawn, overseed at 20 to 35g per m² after scarifying. The existing grass protects seedlings while they establish.
If you are not sure which seed to use, our best grass seed UK guide helps you choose the right one for your situation.
Step 6: Start mowing (when grass reaches 5cm)
Do not rush the first mow. Wait until the grass is actively growing and has reached at least 5cm. Set your mower height to its highest setting and take off no more than one-third of the leaf. Scalping the lawn in spring is one of the most common mistakes and sets recovery back weeks.
Gradually lower the cutting height over the following 3 to 4 weeks until you reach your normal mowing height (typically 2.5 to 4cm depending on grass type).
Common Spring Lawn Mistakes
These errors slow recovery or cause new problems. Avoid them.
Products You Will Need
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I start working on my lawn in spring?
Begin in March once the ground is no longer frozen or waterlogged. Start with raking and aeration, then feed once grass is actively growing (usually late March or April depending on your location). Northern areas may need to wait until mid-April.
Why does my lawn look yellow after winter?
Grass goes dormant in cold weather and loses its green colour. This is completely normal. Once temperatures rise and you apply a spring feed, the colour returns within 2 to 3 weeks. Persistent yellow patches after feeding may indicate waterlogging or disease.
Can I just feed my lawn without raking first?
You can, but you will get significantly worse results. The layer of dead grass and moss on the surface blocks fertiliser from reaching the soil. Raking first removes this barrier and gives the feed direct access to the root zone. Twenty minutes of raking makes your feed twice as effective.
How long after spring treatment can I seed?
Wait at least 4 weeks. Spring lawn treatments contain selective herbicide that kills broadleaf weeds but also kills new grass seedlings. After 4 weeks the herbicide has broken down enough for safe germination. Use Pre-Seed Foundation Feed when you do seed, as it contains no herbicide.
My lawn is more moss than grass. What should I do?
Apply Spring Lawn Treatment which contains iron-based moss control. The moss will turn black over 1 to 2 weeks. Rake it out once it is dead, then overseed the exposed soil. Long-term, fix the underlying cause: improve drainage, reduce shade, and aerate annually.
Should I use a scarifier or just a rake?
For light thatch and surface moss, a spring-tine rake is fine. For heavy thatch (more than 1cm thick) or lawns that have not been maintained for several years, a powered scarifier is much more effective. You can hire one from most tool hire shops for around £50 per day. Read our scarifying guide for full instructions.
For more seasonal lawn advice, see our Spring Lawn Care Checklist 2026 or explore the complete Lawn Care UK guide.
Ready to Wake Up Your Lawn?
Spring Lawn Treatment feeds your grass, kills weeds, and controls moss in one application. The fastest way to turn a tired winter lawn into something green again.
