Different Weeds Need Different Approaches
A weed with a deep taproot needs different treatment than one spreading by runners. Some weeds laugh off vinegar while others succumb to a single spray. Knowing what you’re dealing with is the first step to actually getting rid of it.
Every garden in the UK has weeds. Some arrive as seeds on the wind, others creep in from neighbouring properties, and a few have been lurking in the soil for decades waiting for their moment. For a visual guide to help you identify what’s in your garden, see our illustrated UK weed identification guide.
The key to controlling them isn’t finding a magic solution that kills everything – it’s understanding what you’re actually dealing with. A dandelion with its deep taproot requires a completely different approach than clover spreading across your lawn by runners. Get the identification wrong, and you’ll waste time and money on methods that don’t work.
Understanding Weed Types
Before identifying specific weeds, it helps to understand how they’re classified. This tells you a lot about how to control them.
Annual vs Perennial
Annual weeds complete their entire lifecycle in one year – they germinate, flower, set seed, and die. Chickweed and bittercress are common examples. They’re generally easier to control because removing them before they seed prevents the next generation.
Perennial weeds return year after year from established root systems. Docks, dandelions, and bindweed fall into this category. These are typically harder to eliminate because even if you remove the top growth, the roots survive and regrow.
Root Systems
Taprooted weeds like dandelions and docks grow a single thick root straight down into the soil. These store energy reserves and can regenerate from fragments left behind after weeding.
Rhizome-spreading weeds like ground elder and bindweed spread through underground stems. Digging often makes them worse by breaking the rhizomes into pieces that each become new plants.
Creeping weeds like clover and creeping buttercup spread via runners along the soil surface, rooting at intervals to form new plants.
Common Lawn Weeds
Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
Dandelions are perhaps the most recognisable weed in UK gardens. Their bright yellow flowers appear from March onwards, quickly turning into the familiar white seed heads (clocks) that children love to blow. Each seed head can release up to 200 seeds that travel miles on the wind.
What makes dandelions difficult to control is their taproot, which can extend 30cm or more into the soil. Snapping this root during weeding almost guarantees regrowth – even a small fragment left behind will produce a new plant.
Control: Systemic weed killer or complete taproot removal. Full guide here.
White Clover (Trifolium repens)
White clover is a low-growing perennial that spreads rapidly across lawns via creeping stems (stolons) that root at each node. Its distinctive three-lobed leaves and white flower heads make it easy to identify.
Clover thrives in lawns with low nitrogen levels because it fixes its own nitrogen from the air through a symbiotic relationship with soil bacteria. This actually gives it a competitive advantage over grass in nutrient-poor soil.
Control: Selective lawn herbicide containing 2,4-D. Improving lawn health and nitrogen levels helps grass outcompete clover.
Creeping Buttercup (Ranunculus repens)
Creeping buttercup is a perennial weed that thrives in damp, poorly-drained lawns and borders. It spreads aggressively via runners (stolons) that root at intervals, quickly forming dense mats of growth.
You can identify it by its glossy yellow flowers and deeply divided three-lobed leaves. It particularly favours heavy clay soils and shaded areas where drainage is poor.
Control: Improve drainage, repeated herbicide treatment. Full guide here.
Plantain (Plantago species)
Plantain is a rosette-forming perennial weed commonly found in lawns, particularly in areas of compacted soil and heavy foot traffic. The two main species are greater plantain (Plantago major) with broad, oval leaves, and ribwort plantain (Plantago lanceolata) with narrower, ribbed leaves.
Both species produce a strong taproot and can tolerate very close mowing, which gives them an advantage over grass in heavily used areas. Their flower spikes appear from May onwards, producing large quantities of seed.
Control: Selective herbicide. Aerating compacted soil helps prevent establishment.
Speedwell (Veronica species)
Speedwell is a low-growing weed that can be tricky to spot until it produces its distinctive small blue flowers. Several species are common in UK lawns, including slender speedwell and germander speedwell.
It spreads by creeping stems that root at the nodes, forming dense mats that can smother grass. Speedwell is particularly problematic because it grows below normal mowing height, allowing it to flower and set seed even in regularly mown lawns.
Control: Selective herbicide with correct timing. Can be difficult to eliminate completely.
Common Border Weeds
Ground Elder (Aegopodium podagraria)
Ground elder is one of the most persistent and frustrating weeds in UK gardens. Originally introduced by the Romans as a food plant, it spreads relentlessly through a network of underground rhizomes that can extend several metres from the parent plant.
The leaves are distinctive – divided into groups of three with toothed edges, somewhat resembling elder tree leaves (hence the name). White flower heads appear in summer on stems up to 1 metre tall.
What makes ground elder so difficult to control is that even tiny fragments of rhizome left in the soil will regenerate into new plants. Digging it out often makes the problem worse by breaking the rhizomes into pieces.
Control: Systemic herbicide (multiple applications) or smothering. Full guide here.
Bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis)
Bindweed is a climbing perennial weed that twines around other plants, fences, and any available support. Its trumpet-shaped white or pink flowers might look attractive, but this weed is extremely invasive and difficult to eradicate.
The root system can extend 5 metres deep into the soil, with lateral roots spreading several metres in each direction. Even a 5cm fragment of root can regenerate into a new plant, making it one of the toughest weeds to control.
Control: Persistent herbicide treatment over multiple seasons. Full guide here.
Nettles (Urtica dioica)
Stinging nettles are familiar to every gardener. These perennial weeds spread via creeping yellow roots and thrive in nitrogen-rich soil, often indicating fertile ground. They can grow up to 1.5 metres tall and form dense patches that exclude other plants.
While nettles have ecological value (they’re food plants for several butterfly species), they’re unwelcome in most garden borders. Their spreading root system means they quickly colonise new ground, and the stinging hairs on leaves and stems make them unpleasant to handle.
Control: Cut back repeatedly or apply systemic herbicide. Full guide here.
Chickweed (Stellaria media)
Chickweed is an annual weed that can produce multiple generations in a single year, making it a persistent problem despite its relatively easy control. It forms sprawling mats of small, bright green leaves with tiny white star-shaped flowers.
Seeds can germinate at almost any time of year when conditions are mild, and a single plant can produce up to 2,500 seeds. The seeds remain viable in the soil for years, creating a persistent seed bank that continues to produce new plants.
Control: Hand weeding before flowering, mulching to prevent germination. Full guide here.
Docks (Rumex species)
Docks are large-leaved perennial weeds with deep, fleshy taproots that can extend 30cm or more into the soil. Broad-leaved dock (Rumex obtusifolius) and curled dock (Rumex crispus) are the most common species in UK gardens.
The taproots store substantial energy reserves, meaning docks can regrow repeatedly even after the leaves are removed. Their seeds are produced in huge quantities and can remain viable in the soil for decades, making long-term control challenging.
Control: Systemic herbicide or complete taproot extraction. Full guide here.
Choosing the Right Herbicide
Different weeds respond to different active ingredients. Glyphosate is a non-selective systemic herbicide that kills virtually all plants it contacts. It works by being absorbed through the leaves and transported throughout the plant, including down to the roots. This makes it effective against deep-rooted perennials like bindweed and ground elder, but it will also kill any grass or garden plants it touches.
For lawn weeds, selective herbicides are the better choice. Products containing 2,4-D, MCPA, or mecoprop target broadleaf weeds while leaving grass unharmed. These work by mimicking plant growth hormones, causing broadleaf weeds to grow themselves to death while grasses remain unaffected.
The timing of herbicide application matters significantly. Most herbicides work best when weeds are actively growing (typically April to September) and when rain isn’t expected for at least 6-8 hours after application. Applying herbicide to stressed, drought-affected weeds produces poor results because the plant isn’t actively transporting substances through its system.
For persistent perennial weeds like ground elder and bindweed, a single application is rarely enough. Plan for at least 2-3 treatments over the growing season, allowing 4-6 weeks between applications for regrowth to appear.
Identifying Unknown Weeds
If you’re not sure what weed you’re dealing with, there are several approaches to identification. Start by examining the leaf shape, growth habit, and root system. Is it a rosette of leaves flat to the ground, or an upright plant? Does it have a single thick root or a network of spreading roots?
Smartphone apps like PlantNet and Google Lens can identify weeds from photographs with reasonable accuracy. Take clear photos of the leaves, flowers (if present), and overall growth habit for the best results.
The RHS website maintains an excellent weed identification database with photos and control advice for common UK garden weeds.
If all else fails, your local garden centre staff can often identify weeds from a sample or clear photograph, and they’ll usually recommend appropriate control methods at the same time.
Common Questions About Garden Weeds
What is the most common weed in UK gardens?
Dandelions are arguably the most common and most recognisable weed in UK gardens. Their wind-dispersed seeds mean they colonise virtually every garden, and their deep taproots make them persistent once established.
Should I remove weeds before applying weed killer?
No – most systemic weed killers need leaf coverage to absorb the active ingredient. Cutting or mowing weeds before spraying reduces the leaf area available for absorption, making the treatment less effective. Allow weeds to grow actively for 2-3 weeks before applying herbicide for best results.
Why do weeds keep coming back after I remove them?
Most perennial weeds store energy in their root systems. Unless you remove or kill the entire root, the plant will regrow from whatever remains in the soil. Rhizome-spreading weeds like ground elder are particularly problematic because digging breaks the roots into fragments that each become new plants.
Is vinegar an effective weed killer?
Household vinegar (5% acetic acid) only burns the top growth of weeds and does not kill the roots. Perennial weeds will regrow quickly after vinegar treatment. Horticultural vinegar (20% acetic acid) is more effective but still struggles with deep-rooted perennials. For persistent weeds, a proper systemic herbicide is far more effective.
When is the best time to kill weeds?
The best time to apply herbicide is during active growth, typically from April to September. Choose a dry, calm day when rain isn’t forecast for at least 6-8 hours. Avoid spraying during drought conditions or extreme heat, as stressed weeds absorb herbicide less effectively.
Every weed has its weakness – taproots snap when you dig, rhizomes regenerate from fragments, and seeds wait decades for their moment. Once you know what you’re dealing with, a systemic weedkiller matched to your weed type gives you the best chance of permanent control.
Know What You’re Fighting?
Now you’ve identified your weeds, hit them with something that actually kills the roots. One spray, done properly.
