Prepare Your Lawn for the Cold Months
Autumn is when you set your lawn up for success. Our Autumn Lawn Treatment strengthens roots, hardens grass against frost, and keeps colour through winter – without encouraging vulnerable new growth.
Autumn is the unsung hero of lawn care. While spring gets all the attention, what you do in September, October and November has the biggest impact on how your lawn looks next year.
Think of it this way: spring is about waking your lawn up, but autumn is about making it strong. The work you put in now determines whether your lawn bounces back next spring or limps into summer still recovering from winter damage.
September: The Renovation Window
September is the golden month for lawn care. The soil is still warm from summer, but cooler air temperatures and increasing rainfall create perfect growing conditions. This is your window for all the big jobs.
Scarifying
Scarifying removes the layer of dead grass, moss and debris (thatch) that builds up at soil level. A thin layer of thatch is normal, but when it gets too thick it blocks water, air and nutrients from reaching the roots.
How do you know if you need to scarify? Push your fingers into the lawn at soil level. If you feel a spongy layer more than about 1cm thick before hitting soil, it’s time to scarify.
How to scarify:
– Mow the lawn short first (2-3cm)
– Use a powered scarifier or vigorous raking with a spring-tine rake
– Work in two directions (lengthways then across)
– Collect and remove all the debris
– The lawn will look terrible afterwards – this is normal
Warning: Scarifying is brutal. Your lawn will look like a disaster zone for 2-3 weeks. Only do this in September when there’s time for recovery before winter. Never scarify in spring when grass is still weak from dormancy.
Aerating
Aeration relieves soil compaction by creating holes that let air, water and nutrients reach the roots. It’s particularly important for lawns that get heavy use, have clay soil, or suffer from waterlogging.
When to aerate: If water pools on your lawn after rain, or the soil feels rock-hard in summer, you need to aerate. Most lawns benefit from annual aeration.
How to aerate:
– For small lawns: push a garden fork in 10-15cm deep every 10-15cm across the whole lawn
– For larger lawns: hire a hollow-tine aerator that removes plugs of soil
– Leave the plugs on the surface to break down, or rake them off if you prefer
After aerating, brush sharp sand or a sandy top-dressing into the holes. This keeps them open and improves drainage long-term.
Overseeding
If your lawn has thin patches, bare areas, or just looks sparse, autumn overseeding thickens it up. The warm soil and cooler air create ideal germination conditions, and autumn rain does most of the watering for you.
The process:
– Mow short and rake to remove debris
– Scarify or vigorously rake thin areas to expose soil
– Scatter seed at the recommended rate (usually 25-35g per square metre for overseeding)
– Rake lightly to work seed into contact with soil
– Keep moist until germination (usually 7-14 days)
Timing matters: Aim to overseed by mid-September at the latest. Seed sown later may not establish properly before winter cold slows growth. In northern areas, early September is safer.
October: Feeding and Protecting
October shifts focus from renovation to protection. The goal now is to strengthen your lawn for the winter months ahead.
Autumn feed
Autumn feed has a completely different job to spring feed. Where spring feed is high in nitrogen to promote leafy growth, autumn feed is high in potassium and phosphorus to strengthen roots and cell walls.
Why this matters: Nitrogen encourages soft, leafy growth – exactly what you don’t want going into winter. Soft growth is vulnerable to frost damage and disease. Potassium hardens cell walls, making grass more resilient to cold, disease and wear.
Apply autumn feed in late September or October, after any renovation work. This gives the lawn nutrients to recover from scarifying and helps new grass seed establish.
Final moss treatment
If moss was a problem earlier in the year, autumn is a good time for a follow-up treatment. Moss thrives in the cool, damp conditions of autumn and winter, so hitting it now prevents a major infestation by spring.
Many autumn lawn treatments include iron sulphate which controls moss while feeding the grass. Apply 2-3 weeks before any overseeding, as iron can inhibit seed germination.
Keep clearing leaves
Fallen leaves are the bane of autumn lawn care. Left on the grass, they block light, trap moisture, and create perfect conditions for fungal disease and moss.
– Clear leaves at least weekly during peak leaf fall
– Don’t wait until they’re all down – remove them as they accumulate
– A light covering overnight is fine; a thick layer for days is not
– Mulch small quantities with the mower; compost larger amounts
November: Winding Down
By November, grass growth has slowed significantly. Your main jobs now are keeping the lawn clean and preparing for the quiet months ahead.
Final mow
The last mow of the year typically happens in late October or November, whenever growth effectively stops. There’s no fixed date – watch your lawn rather than the calendar.
– Raise the cutting height for the final cut (around 4cm)
– Longer grass is more resilient to frost and winter stress
– Make sure mower blades are sharp for a clean cut
– Remove clippings rather than mulching (wet clippings can smother grass)
Winter preparation
A few final tasks prepare your lawn for winter:
– Remove any remaining leaves and debris
– Clear worm casts by brushing when dry (don’t squash them when wet)
– Reduce foot traffic on wet or frosty grass
– Keep off the lawn entirely when frozen – walking on frozen grass damages the blades
Autumn Lawn Care Mistakes
X Scarifying too late – grass needs 4-6 weeks of growth before winter
X Using spring feed in autumn – too much nitrogen encourages frost-vulnerable growth
X Ignoring leaves – a few days’ accumulation can cause lasting damage
X Cutting too short – longer grass survives winter better
X Overseeding too late – seed needs time to establish before cold weather
The Autumn Lawn Care Checklist
September:
– Scarify if thatch is more than 1cm
– Aerate compacted areas
– Overseed thin or bare patches
– Continue regular mowing
October:
– Apply autumn lawn feed
– Treat moss if needed
– Clear fallen leaves weekly
– Water new seed if dry
November:
– Final mow at raised height
– Continue clearing leaves
– Brush off worm casts
– Reduce lawn traffic
For more seasonal guides covering every aspect of lawn maintenance, visit our lawn care guide.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I scarify my lawn?
Early to mid-September is ideal. The lawn needs 4-6 weeks of good growing conditions to recover before winter. Scarifying later than early October risks the lawn going into winter weakened.
Can I overseed in October?
Early October is possible in mild years, but risky. Seed may germinate but struggle to establish before cold weather. Mid-September is much safer. If you miss the window, wait until spring.
Should I still mow in autumn?
Yes, but less frequently as growth slows. Continue mowing whenever the grass needs it, gradually raising the height. The last mow is typically late October or November.
What’s the difference between autumn and spring lawn feed?
Spring feed is high in nitrogen to promote leafy growth. Autumn feed is high in potassium and phosphorus to strengthen roots and harden grass against winter. Using the wrong one at the wrong time causes problems.
How do I deal with worm casts?
Wait until they’re dry, then brush them off with a stiff brush or the back of a rake. Never squash wet worm casts – they smear and smother the grass beneath.
Ready to prepare your lawn for winter? Our Autumn Lawn Treatment provides exactly what your grass needs going into the cold months – high potassium to strengthen roots, iron for colour, and low nitrogen to avoid vulnerable growth.
