How to Aerate Your Lawn

If your lawn feels rock-hard in summer, turns into a swamp after rain, or just never seems to respond to feeding no matter what you do – compaction is almost certainly the problem. And the solution is aeration.

Aeration is one of those tasks that sounds complicated but is actually straightforward. It makes a dramatic difference to lawn health, yet most people never do it. Here’s everything you need to know.

What Is Lawn Aeration?

Aeration is simply the process of making holes in your lawn to relieve soil compaction. These holes allow air, water, and nutrients to penetrate down to the root zone where they’re actually needed.

Over time, soil naturally compacts. Every footstep, every mowing session, every time the kids play football – the soil particles get pressed closer together. Eventually, the soil becomes so dense that grass roots can’t grow properly, water can’t drain, and your lawn slowly declines no matter how well you feed it.

Aeration reverses this by physically creating channels through the compacted layer.

Signs Your Lawn Needs Aerating

Not sure if your lawn needs aerating? Look for these signs:

– Water pools on the surface after rain instead of soaking in
– The soil feels rock-hard when you push a screwdriver into it
– Grass struggles in summer despite adequate watering
– The lawn gets heavy use (children, pets, regular foot traffic)
– You have clay soil (which compacts more than sandy soil)
– Thatch builds up quickly despite regular scarifying
– Feed doesn’t seem to make any difference
– Moss keeps returning despite treatment (poor drainage encourages moss)

If two or more of these apply, your lawn will benefit from aeration.

When to Aerate Your Lawn

Timing matters with aeration, though it’s more forgiving than scarifying.

Best time: Early to mid-autumn (September-October)

Autumn aeration works brilliantly because the soil is still warm, grass is actively growing, and autumn rain helps wash topdressing into the holes. It also pairs perfectly with autumn lawn renovation – you can scarify, aerate, and overseed in one weekend.

Second choice: Spring (March-April)

Spring aeration is fine, especially if you missed the autumn window. Wait until the ground has dried out from winter and grass is actively growing.

Avoid aerating:

X During summer drought (stresses the grass further)
X When soil is frozen or waterlogged
X During very hot weather

Aeration Methods

There are two main approaches: spiking and coring. Both help, but coring is more effective for seriously compacted lawns.

Spiking (Solid Tines)

Spiking pushes holes into the soil without removing any material. You can do this with a garden fork, spiked shoes, or a rolling spiker.

Pros: Quick, easy, cheap, good for light compaction
Cons: Can actually increase compaction around the holes, less effective for severe compaction

Best for: Annual maintenance on lawns that aren’t heavily compacted

Coring / Hollow-Tining

Coring removes small plugs of soil, leaving actual holes in the lawn. This is what professionals use and it’s significantly more effective than spiking.

Pros: Removes soil rather than compressing it, allows for topdressing, best results
Cons: Requires hiring equipment (or a lot of manual effort), lawn looks messy temporarily

Best for: Heavily compacted lawns, clay soil, lawns that don’t respond to feeding

How to Aerate Your Lawn

The Garden Fork Method (Small Lawns)

For small lawns or light compaction, a garden fork works fine:

1. Water the lawn the day before if soil is dry (moist soil aerates easier)
2. Push the fork in about 10-15cm deep
3. Rock it back slightly to open the holes
4. Pull straight out
5. Repeat every 10-15cm across the whole lawn

Yes, this is hard work on anything larger than a small garden. That’s why hollow-tine aerators exist.

The Hollow-Tine Method (Larger Lawns)

For medium to large lawns, hire a hollow-tine aerator. Most tool hire shops have them, and a day’s hire is surprisingly affordable for the results you’ll get.

1. Mow the lawn first (short grass makes aerating easier)
2. Water the day before if soil is very dry
3. Set the aerator to remove cores 8-10cm deep
4. Work in rows across the lawn, overlapping slightly
5. Make a second pass at 90 degrees for heavily compacted areas

The cores (small plugs of soil) will be left on the surface. You can either leave them to break down naturally (takes a few weeks), or rake them off if you prefer a tidier appearance.

After Aerating: Maximise the Benefits

Aeration on its own helps, but the real magic happens when you follow up with topdressing and overseeding. Those holes are direct channels to the root zone – use them.

Topdressing

Brush a thin layer of sharp sand or sandy loam into the aeration holes. This keeps them open longer and permanently improves drainage. Use about 2-3kg per square metre, brushed in with a stiff broom or the back of a rake.

For clay soils, sharp sand is best. For sandy soils, a loam-based topdressing adds structure.

Overseeding

Aeration creates perfect conditions for grass seed. The holes give seeds direct contact with soil, and reduced competition from existing grass helps them establish.

Overseed immediately after aerating if you’re doing this in autumn (September). Scatter seed, rake lightly, and keep moist until germination.

Feeding

Apply feed after aerating while the holes are still open. Nutrients will travel directly to the root zone rather than sitting on the surface. This is when pre-seed feeds work particularly well – they’re designed to support root development and new growth.

Common Aeration Mistakes

X Using spiked shoes – they barely penetrate and compact the soil around each spike
X Aerating bone-dry soil – the tines can’t penetrate properly
X Aerating waterlogged soil – you’ll make a muddy mess and damage the lawn
X Not going deep enough – shallow holes don’t relieve compaction
X Missing the follow-up – aeration alone helps, but topdressing makes it last

How Often Should You Aerate?

Most lawns benefit from annual aeration in autumn. High-traffic lawns (children, dogs, regular use) may need it twice a year – autumn and spring.

Lawns on sandy, free-draining soil may only need aerating every 2-3 years. Clay soils typically need it annually.

If you’re not sure, do the screwdriver test: push a screwdriver into the lawn. If it goes in easily, you’re fine. If it takes real effort, it’s time to aerate.

For more lawn renovation guides and maintenance advice, visit our complete lawn care hub.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does aerating really make a difference?

Yes – often dramatically. Lawns that haven’t responded to feeding for years can transform within weeks of proper aeration. Water penetrates, roots grow deeper, and the grass becomes more resilient to drought and wear.

Should I scarify or aerate first?

Scarify first, then aerate. Scarifying removes the thatch layer so aeration holes go directly into soil rather than organic debris. Do both in early autumn for a complete lawn renovation.

Can I aerate with a garden fork?

Yes, but it’s hard work on anything larger than a small lawn. A garden fork is fine for light maintenance or small areas. For serious compaction or larger lawns, hire a hollow-tine aerator.

What do I do with the soil plugs?

You can leave them on the surface to break down naturally (takes 2-3 weeks), rake them off and compost them, or break them up with a rake and let them act as a light topdressing.

How soon can I use the lawn after aerating?

Light use is fine immediately. If you’ve overseeded, keep foot traffic to a minimum for 2-3 weeks while new grass establishes. Water lightly if conditions are dry.

Planning to aerate this autumn? Make the most of those open holes with our Pre-Seed Foundation Feed – nutrients go directly to the root zone where they’re needed most.