How to Fix Bare Patches in Your Lawn

Bare patches in your lawn are unsightly and open the door to weeds. The good news is they’re straightforward to fix – a bit of preparation, some seed, and consistent watering will have them filled in within weeks.

Here’s exactly how to repair bare patches, whether you’ve got one small spot or several areas that need attention.

What Causes Bare Patches?

Before you repair, it helps to understand what caused the problem – otherwise the patches may just come back.

Common causes:

– Dog urine – concentrated nitrogen burns grass
– Heavy foot traffic – compacts soil and wears grass away
– Spilled chemicals – petrol, fertiliser, weedkiller
– Pests – leatherjackets and chafer grubs eat roots
– Disease – fungal infections like fusarium
– Shade – grass dies back under trees or buildings
– Drought – grass dies in prolonged dry spells
– Scalping – mower cutting too low on bumps

If you can identify and address the cause, your repair has a much better chance of lasting.

When to Repair Bare Patches

The best times to reseed are spring (mid-March to May) and autumn (September to mid-October). The soil is warm enough for germination, and there’s usually enough rain to keep things moist.

You can repair patches in summer, but you’ll need to water much more frequently to stop the seed drying out. Avoid winter – seed won’t germinate in cold soil.

For small patches (under 30cm across), you can get away with repairing almost any time the ground isn’t frozen, as long as you’re prepared to water.

How to Fix Bare Patches: Step by Step

Step 1: Clear the area

Remove any dead grass, debris, or weeds from the bare patch. If the patch was caused by dog urine or chemical spill, water the area heavily several times over a few days to flush out any residue that might prevent new grass establishing.

Step 2: Loosen the soil

Use a garden fork or rake to break up the top 2-3cm of soil. Compacted soil is one of the main reasons patches develop and why repairs fail. Seed needs loose soil to make good contact and establish roots.

If the soil is very compacted (common in high-traffic areas), fork it deeper – 10-15cm – and work in some compost or topsoil to improve the structure.

Step 3: Level the surface

Rake the area smooth and level with the surrounding lawn. If the patch is lower than the surrounding grass, add topsoil to bring it up to level. A sunken repair will collect water and may fail.

Step 4: Apply pre-seed fertiliser

Sprinkle pre-seed fertiliser over the area. This provides phosphorus for root development – crucial for getting new grass established quickly. Don’t use regular lawn feed as the nitrogen can burn young seedlings.

Step 5: Sow the seed

Scatter grass seed evenly over the prepared area at about 35-50g per square metre (roughly a good handful per A4 sheet-sized area). For best results, apply half in one direction and half at right angles to get even coverage.

Choose seed that matches your existing lawn. Fast-growing seed is ideal for repairs as it establishes quickly, giving weeds less chance to move in.

Step 6: Cover the seed

Lightly rake the seed into the soil surface – you want good soil contact but the seed shouldn’t be buried more than 5-10mm deep. Alternatively, sprinkle a thin layer of topsoil or compost over the seed.

Firm the area gently with the back of a rake or by walking on a board. Good seed-to-soil contact dramatically improves germination rates.

Step 7: Water and protect

Water the patch gently but thoroughly. Keep the seedbed consistently moist for the first 2-3 weeks – this usually means watering lightly every day in dry weather. The seed must not dry out once germination has started.

If birds are a problem, cover the area with netting or fleece until the grass is established. Some people scatter a thin layer of straw over the seed, which helps retain moisture and deters birds.

Aftercare

Grass seed typically germinates in 7-21 days depending on the variety, temperature, and moisture. You should see green shoots appearing within 2-3 weeks.

First mow

Wait until the new grass is at least 5cm tall before the first cut. Set the mower to its highest setting and make sure the blade is sharp. New grass pulls out easily, so a clean cut is essential.

Keep off

Avoid walking on the repaired area for 4-6 weeks while the new grass establishes roots. Light foot traffic is fine after 3-4 weeks, but keep heavy use and play away until the grass is well rooted.

Ongoing care

Once established, treat the repaired area like the rest of your lawn. Regular feeding and proper mowing will help the new grass blend in and stay healthy.

Using Turf for Large or Stubborn Patches

For large bare areas (over 1 square metre) or patches in high-traffic areas that keep failing, laying turf may be a better option than seed.

Advantages of turf:

– Instant coverage – no waiting for germination
– Can be walked on much sooner (2-3 weeks vs 4-6 weeks)
– Less vulnerable to birds, drought, and washout
– Works better in difficult spots

How to lay turf patches:

Cut out the damaged area in a square or rectangle shape, removing 2-3cm of soil. Prepare the base as you would for seeding – loosen, level, and fertilise. Cut your turf piece to fit snugly, lay it in place, firm down, and water thoroughly. Keep well watered for 2-3 weeks until the roots establish.

Preventing Future Bare Patches

Once you’ve repaired your patches, a few simple practices help prevent new ones forming:

Address the root cause: If dog urine is the issue, train your dog to use a designated area or water the spots immediately. If it’s heavy traffic, consider stepping stones or a path.

Mow at the right height: Cutting too short weakens grass and makes it vulnerable to wear and stress.

Feed regularly: Well-fed grass is more resilient and recovers faster from stress and wear.

Aerate compacted areas: Annual aeration in high-traffic zones keeps the soil healthy.

Overseed annually: A light overseed in autumn keeps grass density high and fills small gaps before they become bare patches.

For more lawn repair guides and advice, explore our complete lawn care guide.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for a bare patch to fill in?

With seed, expect to see germination in 7-21 days and reasonable coverage in 4-6 weeks. The patch will fully blend in after 2-3 months. Turf provides instant coverage but needs 2-3 weeks to root in.

Can I just throw seed on a bare patch?

You can, but results will be poor. Seed needs soil contact to germinate properly. At minimum, rake the area to loosen the surface before seeding. The full preparation process gives much better results.

Why do my patch repairs keep failing?

Common reasons include: letting the seed dry out during germination, not addressing the original cause (like compaction or chemical residue), birds eating the seed, or walking on the area too soon. Try covering with netting and watering more consistently.

Should I use the same seed as my existing lawn?

Ideally, yes. Using very different grass types can create visible colour or texture differences. If you don’t know what you have, a general-purpose mix usually blends in acceptably.

Can I repair bare patches in summer?

Yes, but you’ll need to water much more frequently – potentially twice a day in hot weather. The seed must not dry out. Spring and autumn are much easier.

Ready to repair your lawn? Our Fast Growing Grass Seed germinates in as little as 7 days, filling bare patches quickly before weeds can establish. Pair with Pre-Seed Foundation Feed for the fastest results.