Tired of Scrubbing? There’s a Better Way
Our concentrated moss killer does the hard work for you. Spray it on, let it work, brush off the dead moss. No pressure washer needed, no risk of damaging your brickwork.
Brick walls, brick steps, brick paths — they’re all moss magnets. The porous surface soaks up moisture and the rough texture gives moss spores exactly what they need to latch on and spread. But here’s the good news: because brick is a hard, durable material, it’s actually one of the easier surfaces to treat for moss — as long as you use the right method.
Why Brick Gets So Mossy
Brick is porous. It absorbs water like a sponge, and that moisture creates exactly the conditions moss needs to thrive. North-facing walls, shaded paths, anywhere that stays damp for long periods — that’s where you’ll see moss take hold first.
Mortar joints are even more vulnerable than the brick faces themselves. The mortar is softer, often slightly recessed, and holds moisture for longer. It’s usually the first place you’ll notice green growth appearing. To understand more about how moss establishes itself, see our guide on how moss spreads and reproduces.
The Pressure Washer Problem
It’s tempting to blast moss off brick with a pressure washer, but this is one of the worst things you can do to most types of brickwork. The high-pressure water erodes the surface of the brick, blasts out mortar from the joints, and actually creates a rougher surface that moss finds even easier to colonise next time.
Engineering bricks — the very hard, smooth, dense ones often used for foundations and damp-proof courses — might be able to handle careful pressure washing. But standard facing brick, the type used on most garden walls and house exteriors, will suffer. You’ll end up with damaged pointing, pitted brick faces, and a moss problem that comes back worse than before.
The Better Approach: Treat Then Remove
The best way to deal with moss on brick is to kill it first, then remove the dead growth. This is gentler on the brickwork and far more effective than trying to scrub or scrape off living moss.
Apply a moss killer using a pump sprayer, making sure to get good coverage into the mortar joints where moss is thickest. A pump sprayer lets you direct the treatment exactly where it’s needed without wasting product. To find out what to expect after application, read our article on how long moss killer takes to work.
Once the moss has changed colour — usually turning brown or yellow — it’s dead and ready to remove. A stiff-bristled brush is all you need for brick faces. For moss packed into mortar joints, an old screwdriver or narrow wire brush can help work it out of the crevices.
Brick Steps and Paths
Horizontal brick surfaces like steps and paths are even more prone to moss than vertical walls. Water pools on flat surfaces instead of running off, giving moss more time to establish itself. Mossy brick steps are a genuine safety hazard — they become incredibly slippery when wet.
Treat brick steps and paths with moss killer in exactly the same way as walls. After brushing off the dead moss, a wash with warm soapy water can help remove any remaining residue and leave the surface cleaner. For the best results, check our guide on when is the best time to kill moss in the UK.
What About Household Remedies?
You’ll find plenty of advice online about using household products on mossy brick. Bleach will kill moss, but it can also discolour brick and damage surrounding plants. Vinegar is less harsh but also less effective, and you’d need repeated applications to get results.
Purpose-made moss killer products are formulated to kill moss effectively without damaging the surface underneath. They’re more reliable, easier to use, and work out more cost-effective than repeated applications of household alternatives.
Preventing Moss Coming Back
Once you’ve cleared the moss, there are steps you can take to slow its return. Improve drainage around paths and walls where water tends to collect. Cut back overhanging vegetation that keeps brickwork in permanent shade. Clear gutters and downpipes so water isn’t constantly running down walls.
For shaded walls and north-facing surfaces where conditions will always favour moss growth, a regular preventative treatment every six to twelve months will keep things under control. It’s much easier to prevent moss establishing itself than to deal with a thick layer of growth. For broader advice on tackling green growth, see our guide on how to kill moss, mould and algae.
A Note on Historic Brickwork
If you’re dealing with old brickwork — particularly anything with traditional lime mortar rather than modern cement mortar — take extra care. Lime mortar is softer and more easily damaged than cement-based pointing. Even gentle brushing can dislodge it if it’s already in poor condition.
For listed buildings or historic structures, it’s worth consulting a conservation specialist before treating moss. But for most garden walls, boundary walls, and older domestic brickwork, the treat-and-brush method works perfectly well — just be gentle around the mortar joints and avoid any abrasive tools.
Want the easy option? Skip the scrubbing and let the treatment do the work.
