How to Protect Grass in Winter

A frosty lawn looks magical – all that silvery sparkle in the early morning light. But winter can be tough on grass, and most of the damage people see in spring was entirely preventable. The good news? Winter lawn care is mostly about what you don’t do. A few simple precautions now will save you hours of repair work when the weather warms up.

The Number One Rule: Stay Off Frosty Grass

This is the single most important thing you can do for your lawn in winter. When grass freezes, the water inside each blade turns to ice crystals. Step on frozen grass and those crystals shatter, rupturing cell walls and crushing the blade’s internal structure.

The result? Brown footprint-shaped patches that won’t recover until spring. Worse, damaged grass is vulnerable to disease – snow mould and fusarium often appear exactly where people have walked on frosty lawns.

If you need to cross your garden on a frosty morning, use paths or stepping stones. Wait until the frost has melted before walking on grass. The same applies to pets – if possible, keep them off the lawn until it’s thawed.

Prepare in Autumn, Relax in Winter

Clear Fallen Leaves

A blanket of leaves might look autumnal, but it’s bad news for grass. Leaves block light, trap moisture, and create the perfect conditions for fungal disease and moss growth. They also harbour pests looking for somewhere to overwinter.

Rake leaves regularly throughout autumn – don’t wait until they’ve all fallen. Once leaves get wet and start to mat together, they’re much harder to remove and do more damage to the grass beneath.

Aerate Before the Ground Freezes

Compacted soil drains poorly, and poor drainage means waterlogged grass. Winter rain sitting on the surface leads to disease, moss, and weak root systems.

Aerating in autumn – pushing a fork or aerator into the soil to create drainage holes – helps water penetrate rather than pool. Focus on areas that get heavy foot traffic or tend to stay wet. Once the ground freezes, it’s too late.

Apply Winter Feed

Winter fertiliser is different from spring and summer feeds. You want high potassium and iron, not high nitrogen. Potassium strengthens cell walls, helping grass resist frost damage and disease. Iron promotes colour and hardens the plant. Nitrogen, by contrast, encourages soft leafy growth – exactly what you don’t want heading into freezing weather.

Apply winter feed in late autumn, before the first hard frosts. This gives grass time to absorb nutrients and toughen up for the months ahead.

Remove Furniture and Toys

Anything sitting on your lawn over winter will kill the grass beneath it. Garden furniture, children’s toys, trampolines – move them onto hard standing or store them away. Even relatively light objects can smother grass when left in place for months.

Winter Maintenance: Keep It Minimal

Once winter arrives, the aim is to disturb your lawn as little as possible. Grass is dormant or near-dormant, and any damage won’t repair itself until spring.

Mowing

You probably won’t need to mow much, if at all. Grass growth slows dramatically in cold weather. If you do get a mild spell that triggers some growth, mow only when conditions are dry and frost-free. Never mow wet or frozen grass – you’ll damage the blades, spread disease, and compact the soil.

Keep grass slightly longer than usual going into winter. Longer blades have more surface area to capture the weak winter sunlight, and the extra height insulates the crown of the plant from frost.

Debris Clearance

Continue removing fallen leaves, twigs, and other debris throughout winter. Anything sitting on the grass blocks light and traps moisture. A quick rake on dry days keeps the lawn clear without causing damage.

Dealing with Snow

Light snow generally isn’t a problem – it can even insulate grass from extreme cold. Heavy snow left for extended periods can smother grass and encourage snow mould. If you have deep drifts, gently brush off excess snow with a broom (don’t use a shovel on the lawn).

Never pile snow cleared from paths and driveways onto the lawn, especially if it contains salt or grit. Salt damages grass and soil structure.

What to Do If Things Go Wrong

Despite your best efforts, winter damage can still happen. Brown patches, disease spots, or areas killed by snow mould aren’t the end of the world.

Wait until spring before attempting repairs. Grass needs warmth and consistent moisture to recover, and any work done on frozen or waterlogged ground will make things worse. Once soil temperatures rise above 8–10°C, you can overseed bare patches, apply spring feed, and help your lawn bounce back.

For serious damage, see our guide on preparing your lawn for seeding.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why shouldn’t I walk on frosty grass?

When grass freezes, ice crystals form inside the blades. Walking on frozen grass shatters these crystals, crushing the internal cell structure and leaving brown, damaged patches. Fungal diseases like snow mould and fusarium also tend to develop in footprints on frosty lawns, as the damaged grass can’t fight off infection.

Should I still mow my lawn in winter?

Only if grass is actively growing and conditions are right. Mow on dry, frost-free days when the ground isn’t waterlogged. In practice, most UK lawns need little or no mowing from December to February. Never mow wet or frozen grass – it damages blades, spreads disease, and compacts soil.

What fertiliser should I use in winter?

Use a winter-specific feed that’s high in potassium and iron, not nitrogen. Potassium strengthens grass against frost and disease, while iron promotes colour and hardiness. High-nitrogen feeds encourage soft, leafy growth that’s vulnerable to cold damage – the opposite of what you want in winter.

How do I prevent snow mould?

Snow mould thrives in cold, damp conditions with poor air circulation. Prevent it by keeping your lawn clear of leaves and debris, ensuring good drainage through autumn aeration, applying winter feed to strengthen grass, and avoiding walking on frosty lawns. If snow mould appears, wait for warmer weather – affected areas usually recover with proper spring care.

Should I leave grass longer or shorter for winter?

Slightly longer. Taller grass blades have more surface area to capture weak winter sunlight for photosynthesis, and the extra height helps insulate the crown (growing point) from frost. Raise your mower height for the final autumn cuts and avoid cutting too short going into winter.

The Bottom Line

Winter lawn care is refreshingly simple: prepare well in autumn, then leave your grass alone as much as possible. Stay off frozen lawns, keep debris cleared, and resist the urge to tinker when the ground is cold and wet.

Do this, and you’ll emerge from winter with a lawn that’s ready to bounce back the moment spring arrives. Skip the preparation or trample across frosty grass all winter, and you’ll spend spring repairing damage that never needed to happen.