Everything You Need for Lawn Renovation
Transform a tired lawn with our Fast Growing Grass Seed and Pre-Seed Foundation Feed. Quick establishment fills gaps fast, while the phosphorus-rich feed ensures strong root development for lasting results.
Sometimes a lawn reaches a point where regular maintenance isn’t enough. Years of neglect, severe damage, or simply starting with a poor lawn means you need something more aggressive – a full renovation.
The good news is that most lawns can be transformed in a single autumn with the right approach. Here’s how to renovate your lawn and bring it back to life.
Renovation vs Starting Again
Before diving in, decide whether renovation is right for your situation:
Renovate if:
– At least 40-50% of your lawn is still reasonable grass
– Problems are mainly thin patches, weeds, or thatch
– The soil structure is decent
– You want to avoid the cost and effort of starting from scratch
– Less than 30% is usable grass
– Severe soil problems (rubble, extreme compaction, contamination)
– Persistent grass-type weeds that can’t be selectively treated
– Major level or drainage issues that need correcting
Renovation keeps the existing grass as a foundation and introduces new seed to fill gaps and improve density. It’s faster and cheaper than starting again, but won’t fix fundamental problems.
When to Renovate
Timing is crucial. Renovation involves aggressive treatment that stresses your lawn, followed by seeding that needs specific conditions to succeed.
Early autumn (September) – Best time
Autumn is ideal for renovation. The soil is warm from summer (perfect for germination), air temperatures are cooling (less stress on new seedlings), and autumn rain provides natural moisture. New grass establishes roots before winter and comes back strong in spring.
Spring (April-May) – Second choice
Spring renovation works but faces more weed competition. The advantage is that the lawn has the whole growing season to recover. Avoid spring renovation if you plan to use weed treatments – most weedkillers prevent grass seed germination for 4-6 weeks.
Avoid summer and winter
Summer heat stresses new seedlings, and winter is too cold for germination. Stick to spring or autumn.
The Renovation Process
Step 1: Mow short
Cut the lawn as short as your mower allows – around 2cm. This makes scarifying easier and allows seed to reach the soil. Collect all clippings.
Step 2: Treat weeds (if needed)
If your lawn has significant broadleaf weeds, treat them 2-3 weeks before renovation using a selective lawn weedkiller. This gives the weedkiller time to work. However, note that most weedkillers leave residue that prevents seed germination for 4-6 weeks – check the product instructions.
Alternatively, skip the weedkiller and renovate first. Many weeds won’t survive the aggressive scarifying, and a thick, healthy lawn will naturally suppress weeds going forward.
Step 3: Scarify aggressively
Scarifying is the backbone of renovation. Unlike light annual scarifying, renovation scarifying is aggressive – you’re removing thatch, moss, and weak grass to expose soil for new seed.
For renovation, set the scarifier deeper than normal and make multiple passes in different directions. The lawn will look devastated afterwards – more brown than green. This is exactly what you want. If it still looks green, you haven’t gone deep enough.
Rake up and remove all the debris. You’ll be amazed how much material comes out – often several wheelbarrow loads from an average lawn.
Step 4: Aerate
Aeration is highly recommended during renovation, especially if soil compaction is an issue. The holes improve drainage, allow roots to penetrate deeper, and provide perfect pockets for new seed to settle into.
Hollow-tine aeration (which removes plugs of soil) is ideal. Leave the cores on the surface – they’ll break down and help fill gaps. Spike aeration is second best but still beneficial.
Step 5: Apply pre-seed fertiliser
Spread pre-seed fertiliser over the entire lawn. This provides phosphorus for root development – crucial for both existing grass recovering from scarifying and new seedlings establishing. Unlike regular lawn feed, pre-seed fertiliser won’t burn new grass.
Step 6: Overseed generously
For renovation, seed at a higher rate than normal overseeding – around 35-50g per square metre (similar to sowing a new lawn). The aggressive scarifying has created plenty of soil exposure for seed to make contact.
Use fast-growing seed for quick results, or Autumn Lawn Seed if renovating in September-October. See all available grass seed options to match your lawn type and sowing season.
Spread seed evenly using the cross-pattern method: half walking one direction, half at right angles. A handheld spreader helps achieve even coverage.
Step 7: Topdress (optional but recommended)
Topdressing involves spreading a thin layer (5-10mm) of quality topsoil, sand, or lawn dressing over the seeded lawn. It improves soil structure, covers seed for better germination, and helps level minor undulations.
Work the topdressing in with a stiff brush or the back of a rake, ensuring seed isn’t buried too deeply. This step significantly improves germination rates but can be skipped if budget or time is limited.
Step 8: Water and wait
Water thoroughly after seeding. Then keep the lawn consistently moist for 2-3 weeks until new grass is established. This typically means light watering every day or two in dry conditions.
The critical rule: once germination starts, the seedbed must not dry out. Seedlings that dry out die.
Aftercare
First mow
Wait until new grass is at least 5cm tall before mowing. Set the mower to its highest setting (4-5cm) and ensure the blade is sharp. New grass pulls out easily if torn rather than cut cleanly.
Gradually reduce cutting height over several mows until you reach your normal height.
Reduce traffic
Minimise foot traffic for 4-6 weeks while new grass establishes. Light walking for mowing is fine after 3-4 weeks, but avoid heavy use until the lawn is fully recovered.
Resume normal care
Once the new grass has been mowed 3-4 times, return to your normal feeding schedule. If you renovated in autumn, the next feed would be winter treatment. Continue with normal seasonal lawn care going forward.
What Results to Expect
Week 1-2: Lawn looks terrible – brown, sparse, scarified. Don’t panic, this is normal.
Week 2-3: New grass starts germinating. Green fuzz appears across bare areas.
Week 4-6: New grass fills in. Lawn starts looking green again. First mow possible.
Week 8-12: Lawn thickens noticeably. Old and new grass blend together.
Following spring: Full recovery. Lawn should be dramatically improved – thicker, greener, and more resilient.
Renovation isn’t instant – it takes a full growing season for complete results. But by next summer, you’ll have a lawn that’s transformed from tired and patchy to thick and healthy.
Common Renovation Mistakes
Not scarifying deeply enough
Light scarifying doesn’t create enough soil exposure for seed. If the lawn still looks mostly green after scarifying, you haven’t gone deep enough. Renovation scarifying should be aggressive.
Seeding too lightly
Renovation needs more seed than maintenance overseeding. Use 35-50g per square metre – don’t skimp. Thin seeding means thin results.
Letting the seedbed dry out
This is the most common cause of failed renovation. Once seed starts germinating, consistent moisture is non-negotiable. If you can’t commit to watering for 2-3 weeks, wait for wetter weather.
Using the lawn too soon
New grass needs time to root before it can handle traffic. Rushing back onto the lawn means damaging new seedlings and starting over.
Renovating at the wrong time
Summer renovation fails because seedlings can’t handle the heat. Winter renovation fails because seed won’t germinate. Stick to spring or autumn.
To explore more lawn care topics and seasonal guides, visit our complete lawn care resource.
Frequently Asked Questions
How long does lawn renovation take?
The active work takes a day or two. Visible improvement takes 4-6 weeks. Full results take a growing season. By the following summer, you’ll have a transformed lawn.
Can I renovate in sections?
Yes, if you need to keep using part of the lawn. Renovate one area, let it establish, then do the next. This extends the timeline but keeps part of your garden usable.
Should I kill the existing grass first?
Only if you’re starting completely from scratch. For renovation, you keep the existing grass – it provides some green cover while new seed establishes and contributes to the final lawn.
How much does lawn renovation cost?
DIY renovation for an average lawn (100m²) costs roughly £50-100 for seed, fertiliser, and scarifier hire. Much cheaper than professional renovation or laying new turf.
What if my renovation fails?
The most likely cause is the seedbed drying out. If germination failed, rake up any remaining seed, reseed, and ensure consistent watering. If patches failed, repair them individually.
Do I need to renovate every year?
No – renovation is for tired or damaged lawns that need intensive work. Once your lawn is healthy, annual overseeding and regular maintenance keeps it in good condition without full renovation.
Ready to Transform Your Lawn?
Our Fast Growing Grass Seed establishes quickly with visible growth in 7–14 days. Pair with Pre-Seed Foundation Feed for strong root development, and follow up with Autumn Lawn Treatment to keep your renovated lawn in top condition.
