That dark corner where nothing grows? Challenge accepted.
Every garden has one. The strip along the fence that’s in shadow all day. The patch under the tree. The north-facing lawn that barely sees the sun from October to March.
You’ve probably tried “shade tolerant” grass seed before. Maybe it grew… for a while. Then winter came, the light disappeared, and so did your grass. By spring, you were back to bare soil and moss.
Here’s why most shade seed fails:
“Shade tolerant” usually means “can handle a bit less sun than normal.” That’s fine for dappled shade or areas that get a few hours of light. But for genuine deep shade—the kind cast by buildings, solid fences, and evergreen trees—you need something tougher.
Deep Shade Survivor contains grass varieties selected specifically for extreme low-light conditions. We’re talking the species used on shaded golf tees, woodland edges, and north-facing commercial landscapes where failure isn’t an option.
What makes this different:
Genuine shade specialists — Not just standard grass with “shade tolerant” on the label. These varieties photosynthesise efficiently in low light and have adapted to thrive where others merely survive.
Winter persistence — The real test of shade grass isn’t summer (when even difficult areas get some light). It’s winter, when day length drops and light levels plummet. This blend is selected for year-round density.
Dense growth habit — Sparse grass in shade is a moss magnet. Deep Shade Survivor forms a tight sward that leaves no room for moss to establish.
Be realistic (we will be):
No grass grows in complete darkness. If your area gets zero natural light, you’re looking at alternative ground cover, not grass seed. But if there’s ambient light—even indirect—this blend will give you the best possible chance of success.
For areas with heavy shade from trees, you may need to overseed each spring as the canopy leafs out. That’s normal for challenging conditions, and a small price for turning a problem area into actual lawn.
Perfect for:
- North-facing gardens
- Areas shaded by buildings or walls
- Under deciduous trees (sow before leaves emerge)
- Fence lines and boundary edges
- Any area that gets less than 3-4 hours of direct sun
How to use:
- If under trees, clear fallen leaves and debris
- Rake to create a fine seedbed
- Sow at the recommended rate—don’t over-seed
- Water regularly until established (shaded areas dry out slower, so check before watering)
Pro tip: Sow in early spring before deciduous trees leaf out, or in early autumn when light levels are still reasonable. This gives the grass time to establish while conditions are slightly easier.
Stop fighting your garden’s conditions. Work with them.
Shade Tolerant Grass Seed | For North-Facing & Low-Light Gardens
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Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How much is delivery?
A: Free
Q: How long does delivery take?
A: 1-3 working days
Q: How much shade can this grass actually tolerate?
A: This blend is designed for areas receiving 3-4 hours of direct sunlight or 4-6 hours of dappled/filtered light per day. No grass will grow in complete darkness—if your area gets zero natural light, consider alternative ground cover like bark mulch.
Q: Will this grow under my trees?
A: Yes, it’s specifically formulated for under-tree conditions. However, success depends on the tree type. Deciduous trees (those that lose leaves) are easier—sow in early spring before leaves emerge or early autumn. Dense evergreens that block all light year-round are more challenging.
Q: My garden faces north and barely sees sun—will this work?
A: North-facing gardens are exactly what this seed is designed for. These areas typically get ambient light even without direct sun, which is sufficient for shade-adapted grass varieties. You may need to overseed annually to maintain density.
Q: How long does it take to germinate?
A: Fine fescue varieties in this blend typically germinate in 14-21 days—slightly slower than standard lawn seed. Be patient, as shade grasses establish more gradually but develop strong root systems.
Q: Should I sow at a different rate in shade?
A: Use the same rate as sunny areas: 25-35g per square metre for overseeding, 35-50g per square metre for bare soil. Don’t over-seed, as this can cause competition issues in low-light conditions.
Q: When is the best time to sow in shaded areas?
A: Early spring (March-April) before deciduous trees leaf out, or early autumn (late August-September) when light levels are still reasonable. Avoid late spring/summer when tree canopy blocks maximum light.
Q: Why does moss keep coming back in my shaded areas?
A: Moss thrives in shade, compacted soil, poor drainage, and acidic conditions. Address these issues alongside seeding: aerate compacted soil, improve drainage, test and adjust soil pH, and maintain dense grass coverage to outcompete moss.
Q: How should I mow grass in shaded areas?
A: Mow higher than sunny areas—at least 5-7cm (2-3 inches). Longer blades capture more light for photosynthesis. Never remove more than one-third of the blade length at once.
Q: Does shade grass need less water?
A: It depends. Shade from buildings means less evaporation, so water less frequently. Shade from trees means grass competes with tree roots for moisture, so you may need to water more. Check soil moisture before watering.
Q: Can I mix this with other grass seed?
A: Yes. Many gardeners blend shade seed with their existing lawn seed for transitional areas that get partial sun. Use a 50:50 mix for areas with mixed light conditions.
Q: Will the grass look different from my sunny lawn?
A: Fine fescue varieties have a slightly finer texture and can appear a different shade of green than ryegrass-based lawns. The difference is usually subtle and blends naturally at boundaries.
Q: My shade grass established but died the following winter—why?
A: This is common with standard “shade tolerant” seed that can’t handle reduced winter light. Our blend is selected specifically for year-round persistence in UK conditions. Ensure good drainage to prevent waterlogging in winter shade.
Worried your garden is too shady?
If it gets any natural light—even just ambient daylight—this blend has the best chance of success. And if it doesn’t work in your conditions, our 30-day guarantee means you’re not stuck with a bag of useless seed. We’ll refund you, simple as that.
💬 Questions? Email us at [email protected]
