Our Pre-Seed Foundation Feed is perfect for preparing ground before turfing. High phosphorus promotes rapid root establishment so your new lawn anchors quickly.
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Laying turf transforms bare soil into an instant lawn. While not difficult, the job requires proper preparation, good technique, and careful timing. Get these right and your turf will root quickly and thrive. Cut corners and you’ll struggle with gaps, dead patches, and poor establishment.
When to Lay Turf
Turf can be laid almost any time the ground isn’t frozen or baked dry, but some periods are better than others.
Autumn is ideal. Soil is still warm from summer, encouraging root growth, while cooler air and increased rainfall reduce stress on the turf. September and October are perfect.
Spring works well too, particularly March to May. Avoid late spring if a dry summer is forecast unless you can water reliably.
Summer laying is possible but demanding. New turf needs heavy watering in warm weather, potentially twice daily. Without irrigation, summer-laid turf often fails.
Winter is risky. Turf survives but won’t root until spring, sitting vulnerable to lifting, waterlogging, and frost damage for months.
Ordering Turf
Measure your area carefully and add 5-10% for cutting and waste. Turf is typically sold by the square metre in rolls roughly 60cm wide and 1-2 metres long.
Order from a reputable supplier who cuts fresh to order. Supermarket turf stacked in bags has often deteriorated before you buy it.
Specify a delivery date that allows you to lay immediately. Turf deteriorates rapidly once cut, particularly in warm weather. Ideally, lay on delivery day. Maximum storage time is 24-48 hours in cool conditions, less in summer.
Not sure whether turf is right for you? See our comparison of turf vs seed to help you decide.
Ground Preparation
Preparation is identical whether turfing or seeding, and equally important. Poor preparation causes most turf failures.
Clear the area completely. Remove old grass, weeds, stones, and debris. If existing vegetation is heavy, strip it or kill it with glyphosate two weeks before turfing.
Cultivate to 15-20cm depth. Dig over or rotovate to break up compaction. This is essential, particularly on new build sites where soil is often severely compacted.
Improve poor soil. Heavy clay benefits from sharp sand and organic matter. Sandy soil needs compost or well-rotted manure to retain moisture. Work these in during cultivation.
Level roughly. Use a rake to create an even surface, filling hollows and reducing high spots.
Firm the soil. Tread the entire area systematically, shuffling with your weight on your heels. This reveals soft spots that will sink later. Repeat until the surface is uniformly firm.
Rake to a fine finish. The final surface should be level, firm, and have a fine tilth of small soil particles. Remove any stones larger than a golf ball.
Apply starter fertiliser. A phosphorus-rich feed like our Pre-Seed Foundation Feed promotes rapid rooting. Rake it into the top centimetre of soil.
The prepared surface should be about 25mm below the level of adjacent paths and patios. This allows for turf thickness and slight settling.
Laying Technique
Start along a straight edge: a path, patio, or string line. Lay the first row carefully as it sets the pattern for everything else.
Unroll each piece gently, pressing it down onto the soil. Don’t stretch or pull the turf, which creates gaps when it relaxes.
Butt edges tightly together without overlapping. There should be no gaps and no turf sitting on top of other turf.
Stagger joints like brickwork. Each row should start with a half-piece so that joints don’t align. Aligned joints create visible lines and weak points prone to drying out.
Work from boards placed on laid turf to protect it and avoid compacting prepared soil. Move the boards forward as you progress.
Use a half-moon edger or sharp knife to cut turf to fit around obstacles and edges. Cut slightly oversize and trim to final fit.
Always place small pieces in the middle of the lawn, never at edges where they dry out and fail. If you end a row with a small piece, swap it with a full piece from mid-row.
Finishing Touches
Once laid, roll the entire lawn with a light garden roller or tread it gently to ensure good soil contact. This eliminates air pockets beneath the turf.
Brush a thin layer of sandy topdressing into the joints if gaps exist. This prevents edges drying and helps pieces knit together.
Trim any overhanging edges neatly with a half-moon edger.
Watering
Water immediately and thoroughly after laying. The soil beneath the turf should be wet to several centimetres depth.
Continue watering daily for the first two weeks, more frequently in hot or windy weather. The turf must not dry out before roots establish.
Check by lifting a corner. If the soil beneath is dry, you’re not watering enough. If it’s waterlogged with standing water, ease off slightly.
After two weeks, reduce to every 2-3 days. After a month, water only during dry spells.
The critical sign of success is when turf resists gentle pulling. This indicates roots have grown into the soil beneath.
Aftercare
Keep off the lawn as much as possible for the first 2-3 weeks while roots establish. Light foot traffic is acceptable after 3-4 weeks, normal use after 6-8 weeks.
First mowing can happen once the grass reaches 5-7cm, typically 2-3 weeks after laying in growing season. Set your mower high and remove only the top third. See our guide to mowing heights for ongoing cutting.
Don’t fertilise for at least 6 weeks if you applied starter feed before laying. After that, follow a normal feeding schedule.
Watch for edges drying out or shrinking away from paths. This is the most common problem with new turf. Water edges specifically if they show stress.
Common Problems
Gaps appearing between pieces indicate insufficient firming during laying or inadequate watering causing shrinkage. Brush sandy soil into gaps and water more heavily.
Yellowing turf suggests drought stress. Increase watering immediately. New turf has no root system to draw moisture from depth.
Turf lifting when walked on means roots haven’t established. Stay off the area and check watering is adequate.
Fungal patches can appear in humid conditions or where turf was stacked too long before laying. Improve airflow, reduce watering slightly, and wait for the turf to grow through it.
Turf on Slopes
Slopes require extra care to prevent turf sliding before roots anchor it.
Lay turf horizontally across the slope rather than up and down. Each row supports the one above.
Peg turf with wooden stakes or biodegradable pegs on steep slopes. Drive pegs through the turf into soil below until hidden.
Water carefully to avoid runoff washing soil from beneath the turf.
Checklist for Success
Prepare thoroughly before turf arrives. Complete cultivation, levelling, and firming days before delivery so you’re ready to lay immediately.
Lay on delivery day whenever possible. The fresher the turf, the better the results.
Water immediately and consistently. More new turf fails from drought than any other cause.
Stay off it for at least three weeks. Give roots time to anchor properly before subjecting turf to foot traffic.
For more guides on establishing and maintaining lawns, visit our lawn care advice hub.
Our Pre-Seed Foundation Feed gives new turf the phosphorus it needs for rapid root development. Apply before laying and watch your lawn establish faster and stronger.
