One Buttercup Plant Can Cover 40 Square Feet in a Year
Those cheerful yellow flowers aren’t so charming when every runner roots to create a new plant. For buttercup that’s escaped into borders and paths, a systemic weedkiller reaches the entire root network and stops the spread for good.
Creeping buttercup is one of those common UK weeds that makes you question your sanity. You pull it out, and two weeks later it’s back – often in more places than before.
That’s because you’re not really removing it. You’re pruning it.
Unlike most garden weeds, creeping buttercup doesn’t just spread by seed. It sends out runners (stolons) that creep across the soil surface, rooting at intervals to create new plants. Pull one up and you’ve left a dozen rooted nodes behind, each ready to become a new plant. One buttercup can colonise 40 square feet in a single growing season.
Understanding how it spreads is the key to actually killing it.
How to Identify Creeping Buttercup
| Method | Where to Use | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Selective weedkiller (2,4-D/MCPA) | Lawns only | Kills buttercup, grass unharmed. 2 applications 4-6 weeks apart |
| Glyphosate (systemic) | Borders, paths, bare ground | Kills entire plant including runners. 2-3 weeks to full effect |
| Hand removal with fork | Small patches in borders | Works if every runner node removed. Check weekly for regrowth |
| Lawn aeration + drainage | Lawns with recurring buttercup | Reduces conditions that favour buttercup. Won’t kill existing plants |
| Mulching (borders) | Cleared borders | Suppresses seedlings and makes runners visible |
Creeping buttercup (Ranunculus repens) is easy to spot once you know what to look for. The leaves are dark green, divided into three lobes, often with pale or dark flecks. They grow on long stalks from a central rosette.
The flowers are the classic buttercup shape – five glossy yellow petals that look almost lacquered. They appear from May to August, held on branching stems above the foliage.
The giveaway is the runners. Look closely and you’ll see horizontal stems spreading outward from the parent plant, rooting wherever they touch soil. These runners are why creeping buttercup forms spreading patches rather than staying in neat clumps.
You’ll find it thriving in lawns, borders, and any damp or poorly-drained ground. It’s one of the most common garden weeds in the UK, particularly on heavy clay soils.
Why Creeping Buttercup Is Hard to Kill
Creeping buttercup has two things working in its favour: runners and roots.
The runners spread fast – up to several feet in a season – and root at every node. Each rooted node is essentially a new plant, connected to the parent but capable of surviving on its own. When you pull up what looks like one plant, you’re often leaving behind a network of rooted fragments.
This runner-spreading habit puts it in the same category as other frustrating weeds like wild strawberry, ground elder, and creeping cinquefoil – all require you to trace and remove the entire network, not just the visible plant.
The root system is fibrous and deep, making complete removal by hand difficult. Even small root fragments left in the soil can regenerate.
And then there’s the seed. Each plant produces plenty of it, and the seeds can remain viable in soil for years. So even if you remove every visible plant, the seed bank keeps producing new generations.
How to Kill Creeping Buttercup
Digging Out (Small Infestations)
For small patches, hand removal can work – but you need to be thorough. Use a fork rather than a trowel to loosen the soil around and under the entire root system. Follow every runner to its end and remove each rooted node.
Do this when the soil is moist but not waterlogged. Dry soil makes it harder to get the roots out intact; wet soil falls apart and leaves fragments behind.
Check the area weekly for regrowth. Any piece of root or runner you missed will quickly establish a new plant.
Improving Conditions
Creeping buttercup thrives in compacted, poorly-drained soil. Improving drainage can make your garden less hospitable to it.
Aerating your lawn in spring and autumn relieves compaction and helps water drain through rather than sitting on the surface. For borders, digging in organic matter improves soil structure over time.
This won’t kill existing buttercup, but it makes reinfestation less likely once you’ve cleared it.
Weedkiller (Persistent Infestations)
For larger areas or buttercup that keeps returning despite your efforts, herbicide is the practical solution.
In lawns: Use a selective lawn weedkiller containing 2,4-D, MCPA, or dicamba. These target broadleaf weeds while leaving grass unharmed. Apply when buttercup is actively growing (spring or autumn) and the soil is moist. You may need two applications, 4-6 weeks apart.
In borders and paths: A glyphosate-based systemic weedkiller will kill buttercup permanently. Glyphosate is absorbed through the leaves and travels through the entire plant – runners, roots, and all. Apply on a dry day when rain isn’t forecast for at least six hours.
Systemic weedkillers take 2-3 weeks to show full effect. The plant will yellow gradually as the chemical works its way through the system.
Preventing Creeping Buttercup From Coming Back
Once you’ve cleared buttercup, keeping it away means making your garden less inviting:
Maintain healthy, dense grass. A thick lawn leaves no gaps for buttercup to establish. Regular feeding, proper mowing height (not too short), and overseeding thin patches all help.
Improve drainage. Address compaction with regular aeration. If certain areas stay permanently wet, consider drainage solutions or raised beds.
Mulch borders. A 5-8cm layer of bark or wood chip suppresses buttercup seedlings and makes any runners easier to spot before they root.
Check boundaries. Buttercup runners can creep in from neighbouring gardens or waste ground. If this is happening, consider installing a physical root barrier along the boundary.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does creeping buttercup keep coming back?
Because it spreads by runners that root at intervals, not just by seed. When you pull up one plant, you leave behind rooted fragments that each become new plants. Even small pieces of root can regenerate. To stop it coming back, you need to remove the entire root network or use a systemic weedkiller that kills roots and runners.
Will mowing get rid of buttercup?
No. Creeping buttercup grows as a low rosette that sits below mowing height. Regular mowing won’t touch it – the plant just keeps spreading via runners while the mower passes overhead. In fact, mowing can help buttercup by weakening the grass that would otherwise compete with it.
What does buttercup in my lawn mean?
It usually indicates compacted or poorly-drained soil. Creeping buttercup thrives in damp conditions where grass struggles. If you’re seeing a lot of buttercup, it’s worth aerating your lawn and addressing any drainage issues alongside treating the weed itself.
Is creeping buttercup poisonous?
Yes, mildly. All buttercups contain a compound called ranunculin that can irritate skin and cause digestive upset if eaten. It’s toxic to livestock in quantity. Wear gloves when handling buttercup, and keep children and pets away from treated areas until the plants have died and been removed.
When is the best time to spray buttercup?
Spring (April-May) or autumn (September-October) when the plant is actively growing. Avoid spraying during drought, frost, or when rain is expected within six hours. For lawn weedkillers, the soil should be moist and grass growing strongly.
The Bottom Line
Creeping buttercup is persistent because it spreads faster than most gardeners can dig. The key is either removing every rooted runner (labour-intensive but possible for small patches) or using a systemic weedkiller that travels through the whole plant.
The Runners Move Faster Than You Can Dig
A systemic weedkiller reaches every rooted node in the network — the bits your fork keeps missing.
