How to Get the Perfect Lawn

A perfect lawn doesn’t happen by accident. It takes consistent care, the right techniques, and a bit of patience. But here’s the good news: once you understand the fundamentals, maintaining a great lawn takes surprisingly little time – perhaps 10-15 minutes a day during the growing season.

This guide covers the essentials. Get these right and you’ll have a lawn that’s the envy of your street.

The Five Fundamentals

Every great lawn comes down to five things: mowing, watering, feeding, weed control, and seasonal maintenance. Master these and everything else follows.

1. Mowing: The Most Important Thing You Do

How you mow affects your lawn more than almost anything else. Get it wrong and you’ll encourage weeds, stress the grass, and create more work for yourself.

Mow high. Set your mower to 7-10cm (3-4 inches) for most of the year. This is higher than most people think, but it’s the single best thing you can do for your lawn. Taller grass shades out weeds, develops deeper roots, and copes better with drought.

Never remove more than one-third. If your grass is 9cm tall, don’t cut it shorter than 6cm. Removing more stresses the plant and weakens the root system. This means mowing little and often during peak growth – typically once or twice a week in late spring and summer.

Keep blades sharp. Blunt mower blades tear grass rather than cutting it cleanly, leaving ragged edges that turn brown and invite disease. Sharpen or replace blades at least once a season.

Leave the clippings. Unless they’re so thick they’ll smother the grass, leave clippings on the lawn. They break down quickly and return nitrogen to the soil – free fertiliser.

Vary your direction. Mow in a different direction each time to prevent the grass leaning one way and to avoid creating ruts.

2. Watering: Less Than You Think

British lawns rarely need watering. Our climate provides enough rainfall for most of the year, and grass is remarkably drought-tolerant – it goes dormant and brown during dry spells, then recovers when rain returns.

That said, there are times when watering makes sense:

New grass seed needs consistent moisture to germinate. Water daily (sometimes twice) until established.

During extended drought if you want to keep your lawn green rather than letting it go dormant.

When you do water, water deeply and infrequently – one good soak per week rather than a light sprinkle every day. This encourages roots to grow deep. Water in the early morning to reduce evaporation and give grass time to dry before nightfall.

3. Feeding: Timing Matters

Grass needs nutrients to stay thick and healthy, particularly nitrogen. A well-fed lawn outcompetes weeds and recovers faster from stress. For a detailed breakdown, see our guide on when to feed your lawn.

Spring feed (March-April): A nitrogen-rich feed to kickstart growth after winter. This is when grass is hungriest.

Summer feed (June-July): Optional – a lighter feed to maintain growth through the main season. Skip this if you’re leaving clippings on the lawn.

Autumn feed (September-October): A different formulation – lower nitrogen, higher potassium – to toughen grass for winter without promoting soft growth that frost will damage.

Don’t feed during drought unless you can water regularly. Fertiliser encourages growth, which increases water demand. On a stressed lawn, you’re making things worse.

For most lawns, spring and autumn feeds are enough. Combined treatments that include moss and weed control make life easier – one application does multiple jobs.

4. Weed Control: Prevention Over Cure

The best weed control is a thick, healthy lawn. Dense grass crowds out weeds before they establish. If you’re constantly battling weeds, the real problem is usually weak grass – fix that and the weeds become manageable.

Hand weeding works well for small numbers. Remove weeds before they flower and set seed. A daisy grubber or old knife gets the roots out.

Spot treatment with a selective weedkiller targets individual weeds without affecting the surrounding grass.

Combined treatments (feed, weed, and mosskiller in one) are efficient for lawns with widespread problems.

For identification and specific control methods for common lawn weeds like clover, dandelions, and plantain, see our guide to common UK weeds.

5. Seasonal Maintenance

Beyond the regular mowing and feeding, certain tasks at certain times keep your lawn in peak condition.

Scarifying (autumn): Raking out the layer of dead grass, moss, and debris (thatch) that builds up at the base of the lawn. This improves air circulation and allows water and nutrients to reach the roots. Do it in early autumn when the lawn has time to recover before winter.

Aerating (autumn or spring): Spiking the lawn with a fork or hollow-tine aerator relieves compaction, particularly on heavy clay soils or high-traffic areas. Water and air can reach the roots more easily.

Overseeding (spring or autumn): Sowing grass seed over thin or bare patches to thicken the lawn. Best done after scarifying when seed can reach the soil. See our guide to preparing your lawn for seeding.

Moss treatment (spring or autumn): If moss is a problem, treat it before scarifying. Iron sulphate kills moss quickly – it turns black within days and can then be raked out.

The Seasonal Calendar

Here’s what to do and when:

Spring (March-May)

First mow when grass starts growing (set mower high). Apply spring feed. Treat moss and weeds. Overseed any thin patches once soil warms up. Gradually lower mowing height and increase frequency as growth picks up.

Summer (June-August)

Mow regularly – once or twice weekly at peak growth. Raise cutting height during hot, dry spells. Water deeply if drought persists and you want to keep the lawn green. Spot-treat any weeds. Optional summer feed in June.

Autumn (September-November)

The most important season for lawn care. Scarify to remove thatch. Aerate compacted areas. Apply autumn feed. Overseed thin patches – autumn is ideal for seeding. Treat any remaining moss. Raise mowing height as growth slows. Final mow before winter.

Winter (December-February)

Stay off frozen or waterlogged grass – walking on it damages the turf. Service your mower. Clean and oil tools. Plan any changes for spring. On mild days, you might squeeze in a light mow if the grass is actively growing.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mowing too short. This is the number one mistake. Short grass looks neat briefly, then becomes thin, weedy, and drought-prone. Raise your mower.

Mowing infrequently then scalping. If you let grass grow long then cut it drastically, you stress the plant and leave brown patches. Little and often is better.

Watering little and often. Light daily watering encourages shallow roots. Water deeply once a week instead, or not at all.

Feeding at the wrong time. Spring feed in summer promotes soft growth. Autumn feed in spring wastes money. Match the product to the season.

Ignoring moss. Moss doesn’t just appear – it’s a symptom of underlying problems (shade, poor drainage, compaction, low fertility). Treat those as well as the moss itself, or it’ll return.

Neglecting autumn care. What you do in September and October sets up your lawn for the whole of next year. Scarifying and autumn feeding are worth the effort.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to get a perfect lawn?

If you’re starting from scratch or renovating a neglected lawn, expect it to take 2-3 seasons of consistent care before it looks really good. Maintenance is ongoing – a perfect lawn needs regular attention to stay that way.

How often should I mow?

During peak growth (late spring/early summer), once or twice a week. Less often in spring, autumn, and during drought. The rule is: mow when it needs it, removing no more than one-third of the height.

What’s the ideal grass height?

7-10cm (3-4 inches) for most UK lawns. You can go slightly shorter for a formal look, but anything under 5cm stresses the grass and encourages weeds.

Why is my lawn full of weeds?

Weeds thrive where grass is weak. The cause is usually one of: mowing too short, compacted soil, poor drainage, low fertility, or shade. Fix the underlying problem and the grass will outcompete the weeds naturally.

When should I scarify?

Early autumn (September) is ideal – the lawn has time to recover before winter. You can also scarify in spring, but avoid summer when grass is stressed and winter when it’s dormant.

The Bottom Line

A perfect lawn comes down to consistent basics: mow high and often, water deeply but rarely, feed in spring and autumn, deal with weeds before they spread, and put in the work during autumn.

It’s not complicated, but it does require regular attention. Spend a few minutes each day during the growing season and you’ll have a lawn worth being proud of. For more detailed guides on every aspect of lawn maintenance, visit our lawn care hub.

Ready to get started? Our seasonal lawn treatments combine feeding, moss control, and weed prevention in one easy application. Just shake and water in – no spreader needed.