How to Kill Ivy

If you’ve ever sprayed ivy and watched the weedkiller bead up and roll off like water off a duck’s back, you’re not imagining things. Ivy leaves are coated in a thick layer of wax – a natural defence that evolved to prevent water loss but also happens to make herbicides almost useless.

This is why so many gardeners give up on ivy. They spray it, nothing happens, and they assume the weedkiller doesn’t work. The weedkiller works fine. It just can’t get through.

Here’s how to break through that waxy armour and kill ivy for good.

Why Ivy Is So Hard to Kill

English ivy (Hedera helix) is an evergreen climber that can grow up to 30 metres, covering walls, fences, trees and ground with equal enthusiasm. It climbs using tiny aerial roots that grip onto almost any surface, and it spreads along the ground by rooting wherever its stems touch soil.

The glossy leaves that make ivy so attractive are also what make it so difficult to control. That shiny surface isn’t just aesthetics – it’s a waxy cuticle that repels water and, unfortunately, herbicides. Spray a mature ivy plant and most of the chemical simply runs off before it can be absorbed.

Ivy also has two distinct growth phases. The juvenile form – the familiar lobed leaves – is a vigorous climber. Once it reaches the top of whatever it’s climbing, it switches to a mature form with unlobed, heart-shaped leaves that produce flowers and berries. This mature growth is even tougher and woodier than the juvenile form.

Ivy is one of the most common weeds in UK gardens, often appearing alongside other woody invaders like brambles.

How to Identify Ivy

Most people recognise ivy instantly, but it’s worth confirming before you start treatment. Look for glossy, dark green leaves with three to five pointed lobes and pale veins. The stems start green and flexible but become woody and thick with age – old ivy stems can be as thick as your arm.

Ivy flowers appear from September to November – small yellowish-green clusters that are surprisingly valuable for late-season pollinators. The black berries that follow are eaten by birds, which is how ivy spreads to new areas. If you see ivy flowering, it’s reached its mature phase.

How to Kill Ivy

The method you choose depends on where the ivy is growing and how much of it you’re dealing with.

Cutting and Treating the Stump

For ivy growing up walls, fences or trees, the most effective approach is to cut through the main stems near ground level and treat the cut ends with a glyphosate-based weedkiller. Use loppers or a pruning saw for thick stems – old ivy can be surprisingly woody.

Once cut, the ivy above will die – but don’t try to pull it off immediately. Dead ivy is much easier to remove than living ivy, and yanking at live stems can damage mortar, bark or fence panels. Wait a few weeks until the leaves brown and the grip loosens, then carefully peel away what you can. Stubborn aerial roots may need a wire brush or pressure washer to remove.

Meanwhile, treat the cut stumps and any regrowth with weedkiller to prevent the ivy coming back. You may need several applications over the following months. For particularly woody, established ivy, triclopyr-based weedkillers can be more effective on the cut stumps.

Spraying Ivy

If you want to spray rather than cut, you need to overcome that waxy coating. There are two approaches that work.

The first is timing. Spray in late spring – May onwards – when the new growth is still soft and the waxy layer hasn’t fully developed. Fresh leaves absorb weedkiller far more effectively than the hardened, overwintered foliage.

The second is physical damage. Before spraying, crush, scrape or rake the ivy leaves to break through the waxy surface. Some gardeners literally walk on ground ivy or bash it with a rake before treatment. This creates entry points for the herbicide to penetrate.

Whichever approach you use, spray lightly rather than drenching the plant. Heavy spray just runs off – a light, even coating gives the chemical time to be absorbed. A systemic weedkiller will then travel through the plant to the roots.

Digging Out Ground Ivy

For ivy spreading across the ground, digging out can be effective if you’re thorough. Ivy roots as it spreads, so you’re essentially dealing with a network of connected plants. Work methodically, following the stems and removing as much root as possible.

If the area is large or the ivy well-established, smothering may be more practical. Cut back all the top growth, then cover with thick mulch, weed membrane or old carpet. Leave the covering in place for at least a year – ideally two growing seasons – to starve the roots of light.

Similar Woody Weeds

Ivy shares its stubborn nature with other vigorous growers. If you’re also battling raspberry bushes, brambles, or Russian vine, you’ll find the cut-and-treat method works well on all of them. For overgrown gardens with multiple woody weeds, our guide to clearing neglected gardens covers the systematic approach needed.

Does Ivy Damage Walls and Trees?

This is more nuanced than most people think. Ivy doesn’t directly harm healthy trees – it’s not parasitic and doesn’t steal nutrients. However, on trees that are already weakened or declining, heavy ivy growth can add weight to branches and hide signs of disease or decay.

On walls, ivy only causes damage if the mortar is already failing. On sound brickwork, ivy can actually be beneficial – research shows it helps insulate buildings and protects walls from weather damage. But if your pointing is crumbly, ivy roots will exploit the gaps and make things worse.

Wildlife Considerations

Before removing all your ivy, consider its wildlife value. Ivy flowers late in the year when little else is blooming, providing vital nectar for bees, butterflies and other pollinators. The berries feed birds through winter. The dense evergreen growth offers year-round shelter for nesting birds, hibernating insects and small mammals.

If possible, keep some ivy in areas where it won’t cause problems. You can control its spread by cutting it back regularly without eliminating it entirely.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why doesn’t weedkiller work on ivy?

Ivy leaves have a thick waxy coating that causes herbicides to bead up and run off before they can be absorbed. To get weedkiller to work, either spray in late spring when new growth is soft, or physically damage the leaves before spraying to break through the waxy barrier.

Can I pull ivy off my wall?

It’s better to cut the stems at the base and wait for the ivy to die before removing it. Live ivy grips tightly and pulling it can damage mortar, render or paintwork. Dead ivy releases much more easily – wait a few weeks after cutting, then carefully peel away what you can.

Does ivy damage walls and trees?

Ivy doesn’t harm healthy trees or sound brickwork. However, it can worsen existing problems – exploiting crumbly mortar, adding weight to weakened branches, or hiding signs of decay. On solid walls with good pointing, ivy can actually provide insulation and weather protection.

When is the best time to spray ivy?

Late spring – May onwards – when the new growth is still soft and the waxy coating hasn’t fully hardened. Overwintered leaves have a thicker, tougher wax layer that’s much harder for herbicides to penetrate. Fresh spring growth absorbs weedkiller far more effectively.

Should I remove ivy for wildlife reasons?

Ivy is actually valuable for wildlife, providing late-season nectar, winter berries, and year-round shelter for birds and insects. If possible, keep some ivy in areas where it won’t cause problems rather than removing it entirely. You can control its spread without eliminating it.

The frustrating thing about ivy is watching the spray bead up and drip off those glossy leaves. Once you break through that waxy defence – by crushing the leaves or catching it when the new growth is soft – a systemic weedkiller can finally do its job.