How to Kill Grass Permanently

Sometimes a lawn is beyond saving. When weeds, moss, and bare patches have taken over, spot treatments and overseeding won’t cut it. The only real solution is to kill everything and start fresh.

Whether you’re planning to reseed, lay turf, install artificial grass, or create a flower bed, you need to kill the existing grass completely – roots and all. Here’s how to do it properly.

Should You Kill Your Lawn or Try to Save It?

Killing an entire lawn is a big job, so make sure it’s actually necessary. A good rule of thumb: if more than 50% of your lawn is weeds, moss, or bare soil, it’s usually easier to start over than to try and rescue it.

Starting over makes sense when:

Your lawn is more weeds than grass. Spot-treating every dandelion and patch of moss becomes pointless when there’s barely any grass left to save. If your lawn is overrun with common UK weeds, starting fresh is often the best approach.

You need to fix underlying problems. Killing the lawn lets you address drainage issues, level uneven ground, improve compacted soil, or add fresh topsoil before replanting.

You’re changing to artificial grass. Live grass needs to be completely dead before installing artificial turf, otherwise it’ll decompose underneath and create problems.

You want a completely different grass type. If your current lawn is full of coarse, off-type grasses, starting fresh with quality seed gives better results than overseeding.

Methods Compared: What Actually Works

Not all grass-killing methods are equal. Here’s an honest comparison:

Glyphosate herbicide: Fastest and most effective. Kills grass to the roots in 2-3 weeks. Safe to replant after 7-14 days. The go-to method for most situations.

Solarization (black plastic): Chemical-free option. Takes 4-8 weeks in summer. Also kills weed seeds in the soil. Good if you have time and want to avoid chemicals.

Sheet mulching (cardboard + mulch): Takes 2-3 months but adds organic matter to soil as it breaks down. Best for converting lawn to planting beds.

Digging it up: Hard physical work. Risks exposing dormant weed seeds. Can accidentally remove valuable topsoil. Only practical for small areas.

Vinegar: Only burns the leaves – doesn’t kill roots. Grass regrows within weeks. Needs repeated applications. Not recommended for killing lawns.

Bleach: Works but leaves harmful residue that prevents replanting. Potentially illegal to use this way in the UK. Environmental hazard. Avoid.

Method 1: Glyphosate Herbicide (Fastest & Most Effective)

Glyphosate is a systemic herbicide – it’s absorbed through the leaves and travels through the entire plant to kill the roots. This is why it’s so effective: the grass dies completely rather than just browning off and regrowing.

How to Apply Glyphosate

Choose the right day. Apply when rain isn’t forecast for at least 6 hours (24 hours is better). Avoid windy days to prevent drift onto plants you want to keep.

Don’t mow first. You want maximum leaf area for the herbicide to absorb. Mowing before spraying reduces effectiveness.

Mix according to instructions. Dilute concentrate in a garden sprayer following the product label. More isn’t better – the correct dilution works best.

Spray evenly. Cover all grass thoroughly but don’t drench to the point of runoff. Wear gloves, long sleeves, and avoid breathing the spray.

Wait. The grass will start yellowing within a week and should be completely dead in 2-3 weeks. Don’t be tempted to rush – wait until it’s thoroughly brown.

When Can You Replant?

Glyphosate breaks down on contact with soil, so it doesn’t leave residue that harms new plants. You can safely reseed or lay turf 7-14 days after application once the old grass is dead.

Important warning: Avoid “extended control” or “long-lasting” herbicide products when you plan to replant soon. These contain additional chemicals that stay active in soil for up to 4 months and will prevent any new grass from growing. Check the label – if it mentions preventing regrowth for weeks or months, don’t use it.

Our Strong Weed Killer uses glyphosate and is safe for replanting after the waiting period. For particularly stubborn lawns with deep-rooted perennial weeds, you may need the strongest weedkiller available.

Method 2: Solarization (Chemical-Free)

Solarization uses the sun’s heat to cook the grass and its roots. It’s slower than herbicide but completely chemical-free, and it also kills weed seeds and soil pathogens – giving you a cleaner slate for replanting.

How to Solarize Your Lawn

Timing matters. Solarization only works well in summer when temperatures are consistently above 25°C. In the UK, June to August is the window.

Mow as short as possible. Unlike herbicide application, you want the grass short so the plastic sits close to the soil.

Water the area deeply. Moist soil conducts heat better than dry soil. Soak the lawn thoroughly before covering.

Cover with heavy-duty black plastic. Use the thickest plastic you can find – cheap thin sheeting tears easily. Clear plastic also works and can be even more effective in hot weather.

Seal the edges completely. Weight down all edges with bricks, boards, or soil. Any gaps let heat escape and allow grass at the edges to survive.

Leave for 4-8 weeks. The longer the better. Check occasionally that the plastic hasn’t blown loose.

When you remove the plastic, the grass should be completely dead and partially decomposed. Rake away the debris before replanting.

Method 3: Sheet Mulching (Slow But Soil-Building)

Sheet mulching smothers grass by blocking all light while adding organic matter to the soil. It’s ideal if you’re converting lawn to a planting bed rather than reseeding with grass.

How to Sheet Mulch

Mow short. Cut the grass as low as your mower allows.

Lay cardboard or thick newspaper. Cover the entire lawn with overlapping layers (at least 15cm overlap). Cardboard from boxes works well – remove any tape first.

Wet it down. Soak the cardboard thoroughly so it stays in place and starts breaking down.

Add 10-15cm of mulch. Wood chips, compost, or leaf mould all work. This holds the cardboard down and adds nutrients as everything decomposes.

Wait 2-3 months. The grass dies from light deprivation while the cardboard and mulch break down into the soil.

This method takes the longest but leaves you with improved, nutrient-rich soil ready for planting.

Why Vinegar, Salt, and Bleach Don’t Work

You’ll find plenty of articles recommending household products to kill grass. Here’s why they’re not good options:

Vinegar (acetic acid) burns plant leaves on contact but is neutralised by soil – it never reaches the roots. The grass looks dead for a week or two, then regrows from the roots. You’d need repeated applications over months, and even then it’s unreliable. Horticultural vinegar (10-20% acetic acid) is more effective than household vinegar (5%) but still doesn’t match glyphosate.

Salt kills plants but remains in the soil, potentially for years. High salt levels prevent anything from growing – including the new lawn you want to plant. It can also leach into neighbouring areas and damage other plants.

Bleach kills grass quickly but leaves harmful residue. Using bleach as a herbicide may be illegal under UK environmental regulations, and it’s certainly not something you want soaking into your soil or running off into drains.

If you want a chemical-free approach, use solarization or sheet mulching. If you want fast results, use glyphosate. The household remedies just waste your time.

Related Weed Problems

If you’re killing your lawn because it’s overrun with weeds, the same glyphosate treatment works on common garden weeds and can also be used to clear weeds from driveways and other hard surfaces.

What to Do After Killing Your Lawn

Once the grass is dead:

Remove the debris. Rake up dead grass, thatch, and any remaining material. For heavily thatched lawns, consider hiring a scarifier.

Address underlying problems. Now’s the time to level uneven areas, improve drainage, or add topsoil if needed.

Prepare the soil for seeding. Rake to a fine tilth, removing stones and debris. Consider adding a thin layer of topsoil or compost.

Reseed or turf. For quick results, choose a fast-growing grass seed that germinates in 5-10 days. Or lay turf for an instant lawn.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the fastest way to kill grass permanently?

Glyphosate-based weed killer is the fastest effective method, killing grass completely (including roots) in 2-3 weeks. You can replant 7-14 days after application. Avoid “extended control” products as these prevent replanting for months.

Will vinegar kill grass permanently?

No. Vinegar only burns the leaves and is neutralised by soil before reaching the roots. Grass will regrow within weeks. Even repeated applications rarely kill grass completely. For permanent results, use glyphosate or solarization.

How long after glyphosate can I reseed?

You can safely reseed or lay turf 7-14 days after applying glyphosate. The herbicide breaks down on contact with soil and doesn’t leave residue that harms new plants. Wait until the old grass is completely dead before replanting.

Can I use bleach to kill my lawn?

While bleach does kill grass, it leaves harmful residue in the soil that prevents replanting. It may also be illegal to use bleach as a herbicide under UK environmental regulations. Use glyphosate instead – it’s more effective and safe for replanting.

How do I kill grass without chemicals?

Solarization (covering with black plastic for 4-8 weeks in summer) or sheet mulching (cardboard covered with mulch for 2-3 months) both kill grass without chemicals. Solarization also kills weed seeds in the soil. These methods take longer but are effective.

The Bottom Line

If your lawn is beyond saving, don’t waste time with ineffective home remedies. Glyphosate is the fastest and most reliable way to kill grass permanently – apply it, wait 2-3 weeks, then replant. For a chemical-free approach, solarization works well in summer but requires patience.

Once the old grass is gone, you’ve got a blank canvas. Prepare your soil properly and you’ll have a fresh, weed-free lawn that’s far better than the one you started with.