How to Kill Weeds on Paths

Garden paths quickly become colonised by weeds if left unattended. Seeds blow in on the wind, drop from overhanging plants, or arrive in bird droppings. Within weeks, what was a tidy walkway becomes a sprouting mess of grass, dandelions and assorted weeds that make your garden look neglected. Learning to identify garden weeds helps you choose the right treatment.

The good news is that path weeds are relatively easy to control compared to weeds in borders or lawns. You don’t need to worry about protecting other plants, and the hard surface or loose material makes physical removal straightforward. With the right approach, you can keep paths weed-free with minimal ongoing effort.

Why Paths Get Weedy

Understanding how weeds establish on paths helps you prevent them returning. Most path weeds don’t grow up from below. They germinate in the layer of organic debris that accumulates on the surface.

Fallen leaves, grass clippings, dust and general garden detritus collect on paths over time. This material breaks down into a thin layer of soil-like matter that provides the perfect seedbed for wind-blown weed seeds. Even paths with weed membrane beneath them develop this surface layer eventually.

Gravel paths are particularly prone to this problem because the irregular surface traps debris between stones. The gravel also retains moisture, creating ideal germination conditions. Paths through shady areas stay damp longer, encouraging moss and liverworts alongside traditional weeds.

Stepping stone paths develop weeds in the gaps between stones where soil remains exposed. These areas often become compacted from foot traffic, which suits certain weeds like plantain and knotgrass that thrive in hard ground.

Physical Removal Methods

For small infestations, hand weeding remains effective. Pull weeds when the soil or gravel is moist, extracting as much root as possible. Annual weeds like bittercress and chickweed pull out cleanly and won’t return if removed before seeding.

Hoeing works well on gravel paths. Push a sharp hoe back and forth through the top layer of gravel, slicing through weed stems and roots just below the surface. This disturbs the accumulated organic layer where weeds germinate, exposing it to dry air and preventing establishment.

Regular hoeing, perhaps monthly during the growing season, prevents weeds building up. The key is catching them young before they develop extensive root systems or set seed. A single dandelion can produce thousands of seeds, each capable of colonising a new patch of path.

For stepping stone paths, use a patio knife or old kitchen knife to scrape weeds from gaps between stones. A wire brush helps remove moss and algae from stone surfaces. Some gardeners use a pressure washer, though this can dislodge jointing material and damage soft stone.

Chemical Control

Glyphosate weedkillers offer the most efficient solution for larger areas or persistent problems. These systemic products kill weeds including their roots, preventing regrowth. Apply when weeds are actively growing with good leaf coverage, typically April to September.

Systemic weedkillers take one to two weeks to show full effect as the chemical moves through the plant to the roots. Don’t disturb treated weeds during this period. Once dead, rake them up and dispose of them. For heavy infestations, the strongest weed killer available will tackle even established perennials.

For paths near borders or lawns, take care with spray drift. Apply on still days and use a coarse spray setting or watering can with dribble bar to place the product precisely. Glyphosate kills any plant it contacts, so shield adjacent grass and ornamentals.

Contact weedkillers burn foliage on contact but don’t kill roots. They work quickly but perennial weeds regrow from surviving root portions. These products suit annual weeds and provide a fast cosmetic fix, but systemic treatment gives longer-lasting results.

Prevention: Weed Membrane

The most effective long-term solution for gravel paths is installing weed membrane beneath the surface material. This fabric blocks light, preventing seeds from germinating below while allowing water to drain through.

For new paths, lay membrane directly on prepared ground before adding gravel. Overlap joins by at least 30cm and secure edges with pegs or by tucking under adjacent surfaces. Cover with a minimum 5cm depth of gravel, ideally 8-10cm for heavy traffic areas.

For existing paths with weed problems, you may need to remove the gravel, lay membrane, then replace the surface material. This involves more work but provides lasting protection. Alternatively, top up thin gravel to increase depth and reduce the organic layer at the surface.

Choose heavy-duty woven membrane for paths rather than lightweight fabric intended for borders. The woven type resists tearing under foot traffic and lasts longer. Non-woven membrane drains better and suits paths prone to waterlogging.

Maintenance Tips

Regular maintenance prevents weeds establishing even without membrane. Keep paths raked to prevent debris accumulation. Clear fallen leaves in autumn before they break down into the surface layer.

Edge paths with hard materials like brick, stone or metal edging to prevent soil creeping in from adjacent borders. This creates a barrier that’s easy to maintain and stops grass invading from lawn edges.

Top up gravel annually to maintain adequate depth. Thin areas let light through to any seeds beneath and provide less hostile conditions for germination. The deeper the gravel, the fewer weeds establish.

For stepping stone paths, consider repointing gaps with a dry mortar mix or specialist jointing compound. This eliminates the soil where weeds root while still allowing drainage. Alternatively, plant low-growing ornamentals like creeping thyme in the gaps to outcompete weeds while softening the hard landscaping.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I stop weeds growing through gravel permanently?

Install heavy-duty weed membrane beneath the gravel, overlapping joins by 30cm minimum. Maintain gravel depth of at least 5cm, ideally 8-10cm. Keep the surface raked to prevent organic debris accumulating where weed seeds can germinate.

Does salt kill weeds on paths?

Salt can kill weeds but creates long-term soil problems. It persists in the ground, preventing anything growing for years and potentially contaminating adjacent planted areas through drainage. Glyphosate-based weedkillers are more effective and break down harmlessly in soil.

Why do weeds grow on my path even with membrane underneath?

Weeds germinate in the organic debris that accumulates on top of the membrane, not from soil beneath it. Fallen leaves and dust create a thin growing medium on the gravel surface. Regular raking and maintaining adequate gravel depth prevents this.

What’s the best weedkiller for paths?

Glyphosate-based systemic weedkillers kill weeds including roots, providing lasting control. Apply when weeds are actively growing with good leaf coverage. For paths away from planted areas, residual weedkillers prevent regrowth for several months.

Can I use boiling water to kill path weeds?

Boiling water kills foliage on contact but doesn’t reliably kill roots of perennial weeds. It works for annual weeds and moss but requires repeated applications. It’s labour-intensive compared to chemical treatment but avoids herbicides entirely.

Keeping paths weed-free requires either regular maintenance or proper installation with membrane and adequate gravel depth. A few minutes’ hoeing each month during the growing season prevents weeds taking hold, while a single thorough renovation with membrane provides years of low-maintenance results. For more advice on keeping hard surfaces clear, see our guides to weeds on patios and weeds on gravel driveways.