A 5cm Piece of Bindweed Root Can Grow Into a New Plant
That’s why digging often makes things worse — every snap of those brittle white roots creates another potential plant. The roots go several metres deep, far beyond where any fork will reach. You need something that travels through the entire root network.
A 5cm piece of bindweed root can grow into a new plant. That single fact explains why this common UK weed defeats so many gardeners – every time you dig it up and snap those brittle white roots, you’re potentially creating dozens more plants scattered around your borders.
The roots can reach several metres deep, far below where any fork will ever go. And if that wasn’t enough, bindweed seeds can lie dormant in your soil for over twenty years, waiting for the right conditions to germinate.
Here’s how to actually get rid of bindweed without accidentally spreading it further.
Why Bindweed Is Such a Problem
| Method | How It Works | Timeline |
|---|---|---|
| Glyphosate spray | Systemic — travels through leaves to deep roots | 2-3 seasons of repeat treatment |
| Persistent pulling | Remove every shoot to exhaust root energy | Several years of consistent effort |
| Smothering | Block all light with membrane/carpet | 12-18 months minimum |
| Digging out | Remove roots manually (high regrowth risk) | Immediate but often counterproductive |
Bindweed isn’t just another weed you can pull up and forget about. It’s a perennial that comes back year after year from an underground root system that would put most garden plants to shame.
Those white, brittle roots spread horizontally through your soil at a rate of up to three metres per year. They run through the roots of your other plants, making it almost impossible to remove bindweed without disturbing everything around it. Above ground, the twining stems can grow three metres long in a single season, spiralling up anything they touch and smothering plants beneath a dense canopy of heart-shaped leaves.
The real problem is what happens when you try to dig it out. Those roots snap easily – and every fragment left behind will regenerate. Rotavating a bed with bindweed in it is one of the worst things you can do, as you’ll chop the roots into hundreds of pieces and spread them throughout your soil.
Bindweed shares this frustrating ability to regenerate from root fragments with other persistent perennials like ground elder, horsetail, and couch grass – all require the same patient, systematic approach.
How to Identify Bindweed
There are two types of bindweed common in UK gardens, and while both are problematic, hedge bindweed is the more aggressive.
Hedge bindweed (Calystegia sepium) has large, pure white trumpet-shaped flowers about 5cm across and heart-shaped leaves up to 12cm long. The stems twine anticlockwise up anything they can find – fences, shrubs, other plants. It’s also called bellbind or wild morning glory.
Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) is smaller overall, with pink and white striped flowers about 2-3cm across and arrow-shaped leaves. It tends to trail along the ground rather than climb aggressively, but the root system is just as persistent.
How to Get Rid of Bindweed
Getting rid of bindweed requires patience and the right approach. There’s no quick fix – but there are methods that actually work rather than making things worse.
Using Weedkiller
A systemic weedkiller containing glyphosate is the most effective option for established bindweed. Unlike contact weedkillers that only burn the leaves, glyphosate travels down through the plant and into the root system – reaching the parts that digging never will.
The best time to spray is when bindweed is actively growing and has plenty of leaf area to absorb the chemical, typically from June through to early autumn when it’s flowering. Where bindweed has wound itself through other plants, carefully unwind the stems and lay them on the ground or a sheet of plastic before spraying. This protects your plants while ensuring good coverage on the bindweed.
You’ll likely need repeat applications. Even with a strong weedkiller, it can take two or three seasons to fully exhaust those deep root reserves. For particularly stubborn infestations, you may need the strongest weedkiller available.
Persistent Removal
If you prefer not to use chemicals, you can weaken bindweed by removing every shoot as soon as it appears. This exhausts the energy reserves in the roots over time – but we’re talking years rather than months. Cut or pull off new growth before it develops leaves, and do this religiously throughout the growing season.
This works best for minor infestations or where bindweed is growing through plants you can’t risk spraying.
Smothering
For heavily infested areas where you can afford to wait, covering the ground with light-excluding material will eventually kill bindweed. Use weed membrane, old carpet, or thick black plastic weighted down at the edges. Leave it in place for at least twelve to eighteen months – bindweed is persistent, and shorter periods may not be enough.
Once cleared, a deep layer of mulch helps suppress any remaining seeds from germinating. The same smothering approach works well for Japanese knotweed and other deep-rooted invasive weeds.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does bindweed keep coming back?
Bindweed regenerates from its extensive root system, which can extend several metres deep and spread horizontally through your soil. Even tiny root fragments left behind after digging will grow into new plants. The roots also store enough energy to send up new shoots repeatedly, even after the foliage has been removed multiple times.
Does digging up bindweed work?
Digging often makes bindweed worse rather than better. The roots are brittle and snap easily, and every piece left in the soil will regenerate. Unless you can remove every last fragment – which is virtually impossible with an established plant – you’ll end up spreading it around your garden.
What’s the difference between hedge bindweed and field bindweed?
Hedge bindweed is larger and more aggressive, with pure white trumpet flowers up to 5cm across and stems that climb several metres high. Field bindweed is smaller, with pink and white striped flowers about 2-3cm wide, and tends to trail along the ground. Both have persistent root systems, but hedge bindweed causes more damage to garden plants.
When is the best time to spray bindweed?
Spray bindweed when it’s actively growing with plenty of leaf area, typically from June through to September. The plant needs to absorb the weedkiller through its leaves and transport it down to the roots, which works best when it’s in full growth. Avoid spraying during drought conditions when the plant may be stressed and less actively growing.
How long does it take to get rid of bindweed?
Expect it to take two to three seasons of consistent treatment to fully eradicate established bindweed. Even with glyphosate, the deep root system has enough energy reserves to send up new growth after the first application. Persistence is key – keep treating new growth as it appears, and don’t assume it’s dead until you’ve had a full growing season with no regrowth.
Bindweed Roots Go Where Your Fork Can’t
A systemic weedkiller travels down to the deepest roots — without spreading fragments around your garden.
sadly, neither boiling (salted!) water nor max. strength vinegar harmed my field bindweed.
5+ years at it… so far, the only long term solution has been digging down to the ‘mother root’. but, that was horrible and it took weeks to throw the many bags of roots away…. isolating the soil in black bins, hoping it’ll be useable after another year.
Homemade weed killers won’t work, try Glyphosate