Strongest Weed Killer That Kill Everything

Need the Strongest Weed Killer That Actually Works?

Professional-strength systemic herbicides kill weeds down to the root in a single application. The right product depends on whether you’re clearing tough perennials, tackling woody invaders, or treating lawn weeds without harming grass.

See Our Strongest Formula →

BUYING GUIDE

Which Weed Killer Do You Actually Need?

Choosing the right herbicide type is the difference between one application and months of failed treatments. Systemic beats contact every time for permanent results.

There’s no single “strongest weed killer” that works for everything. Different weeds require different approaches, and using the wrong product wastes money while achieving nothing.

The key distinction is between systemic herbicides that kill roots and contact herbicides that only burn foliage. For permanent weed control, you need systemic products – everything else just delays the problem.

Systemic vs Contact: The Critical Difference

Before choosing a weed killer, understand this fundamental distinction:

Situation Best Choice Why
Clear overgrown area Glyphosate Kills everything, no residual
Brambles/woody weeds Triclopyr or combined Penetrates woody tissue
Lawn weeds 2,4-D + Dicamba Selective – safe for grass
Path/patio maintenance Glyphosate Total control, replant anytime
Near water Check product labels Some restricted near water
Organic requirements Manual removal No effective organic herbicides

Systemic herbicides are absorbed by the plant and transported throughout its entire system, including down into the roots. The plant dies completely. One application, permanent results.

Contact herbicides only kill the plant parts they physically touch. Foliage burns and dies, but roots survive intact. The weed regrows within weeks, requiring repeated applications.

For established perennial weeds with root systems, only systemic herbicides provide permanent control. This rules out “natural” alternatives like horticultural vinegar and pelargonic acid – they work fast on foliage but roots survive every time.

For a complete breakdown of herbicide types and how they work, see our guide to weed killers.

Strongest Weed Killers for Tough Perennial Weeds

TOUGH WEEDS

Deep Roots Need Systemic Action

Brambles, bindweed, horsetail, and ground elder all have extensive root systems that survive contact herbicides. Only products that travel through the plant to the roots will kill them permanently.

Glyphosate – The All-Round Strongest

Glyphosate remains the most effective broad-spectrum herbicide available. It’s systemic, non-selective (kills everything it touches), and works on virtually all weed types.

Best for: General weed clearance, paths, driveways, fence lines, preparing ground for planting, killing everything in an area.

Effective against: Bindweed, ground elder, couch grass, nettles, horsetail (with persistence), and most other weeds.

Limitations: Takes 7-14 days to show results. Kills grass and ornamental plants too – not for lawns. Multiple applications needed for horsetail and Japanese knotweed.

Glyphosate is the active ingredient in products like Roundup. For maximum strength, look for concentrated formulas with higher glyphosate content that you dilute yourself.

Triclopyr – Strongest for Woody Weeds

Triclopyr is a systemic herbicide specifically designed for woody and brushy weeds. It’s more effective than glyphosate on tough woody targets.

Best for: Brambles, ivy, tree saplings, woody brush, stumps.

Key advantage: Selective – it kills broadleaf weeds and woody plants but won’t harm grass. Safe to use around lawns (though avoid ornamental plants).

Limitations: Not effective on grass weeds. Some soil persistence (wait before replanting). Takes 2-4 weeks for full results.

For serious bramble or woody weed problems, triclopyr is often more effective than glyphosate alone. Some professional products combine both for maximum effectiveness.

Glyphosate + Triclopyr Combined

The most powerful approach for tough perennial weeds combines both active ingredients. Glyphosate handles the broad-spectrum kill while triclopyr adds extra punch against woody tissue.

This combination is particularly effective for:
– Established bramble thickets
Japanese knotweed (multiple applications required)
– Mixed weed infestations with both herbaceous and woody plants

Strongest Weed Killers for Lawns

LAWN SAFE

Selective Herbicides Kill Weeds, Not Grass

Lawn weed killers exploit biological differences between grass and broadleaf plants. They target dandelions, clover, buttercup, and other invaders while leaving your lawn completely unharmed.

For lawns, you need selective herbicides that kill broadleaf weeds without harming grass. Glyphosate and triclopyr are too strong here – they’ll kill your lawn too.

2,4-D – The Lawn Weed Standard

2,4-D is the most widely used lawn herbicide worldwide. It’s a synthetic auxin that causes broadleaf weeds to grow uncontrollably until they die, while grass remains unaffected.

Best for: Dandelions, plantain, clover, daisies, and most common lawn weeds.

Key advantage: Highly effective, well-proven, affordable. Available in many commercial lawn weed killer products.

Limitations: Won’t control grass weeds like couch grass or annual meadow grass. Needs 2-3 weeks to show full results.

Dicamba – For Stubborn Lawn Weeds

Dicamba works similarly to 2,4-D but is more effective on certain stubborn weeds that resist 2,4-D alone.

Best for: Clover, buttercup, speedwell, yarrow, and weeds that survive 2,4-D treatment.

Key advantage: Longer soil activity provides some residual weed prevention. Often combined with 2,4-D in commercial products for broader spectrum control.

Limitations: Volatile – can drift to nearby plants in warm weather. Wait 6-8 weeks before reseeding treated areas.

Multi-Ingredient Lawn Products

The strongest lawn weed killers combine multiple active ingredients – typically 2,4-D, dicamba, and sometimes MCPA or mecoprop. These combinations provide the broadest spectrum of weed control.

Look for products containing at least two selective herbicides for comprehensive lawn weed control. Single-ingredient products may leave some weeds unaffected.

For more on lawn weed control, see our lawn treatment products.

What Doesn’t Work – Save Your Money

Some products are marketed as “strong” or “natural” weed killers but fundamentally can’t deliver permanent results:

Contact Herbicides

Pelargonic acid and horticultural vinegar burn foliage fast but don’t reach roots. Weeds regrow within 2-4 weeks. You’ll spend more money on repeated applications than you would on one proper systemic treatment.

They have limited uses for annual weed seedlings and path maintenance, but calling them “strong” weed killers is misleading.

Homemade Remedies

Homemade weed killers using kitchen vinegar, salt, bleach, or dish soap are essentially useless against established weeds. They might damage small seedlings but won’t kill anything with a root system.

Salt also damages soil structure and can make ground unsuitable for planting for years. It’s not worth the risk.

Boiling Water

Boiling water kills foliage on contact but doesn’t penetrate soil to reach roots. It’s a contact treatment with all the same limitations – weeds regrow from intact roots.

SYSTEMIC ACTION

Killing Weeds From the Inside Out

Systemic herbicides are absorbed through leaves and transported to every part of the root system. The entire plant dies with no chance of regrowth, though visible results take one to four weeks to appear.

Application Tips for Maximum Effectiveness

Even the strongest weed killer won’t work if applied incorrectly:

Timing: Apply when weeds are actively growing (spring through autumn). Dormant weeds don’t absorb herbicide effectively.

Coverage: Systemic herbicides need leaf coverage to work. Spray until leaves are wet but not dripping. More isn’t better – runoff is wasted product.

Weather: Apply on dry days with no rain forecast for 6+ hours. Avoid windy conditions to prevent drift onto desired plants.

Patience: Systemic herbicides take time. Expect 1-2 weeks for visible wilting, 2-4 weeks for complete death. Don’t respray too soon.

Persistence: Some weeds (horsetail, Japanese knotweed, established brambles) require multiple applications over a full growing season. One treatment rarely eliminates them completely.

PROFESSIONAL STRENGTH

One Proper Treatment Beats Months of DIY

Concentrated systemic formulas tackle the toughest perennial weeds at the root. A single professional-strength application delivers permanent results where repeated home remedies fail.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the strongest weed killer you can buy?

For general use, concentrated glyphosate products offer the strongest broad-spectrum control. For woody weeds specifically, triclopyr or combined glyphosate/triclopyr products are more effective. “Strongest” depends on what you’re killing – lawn weeds need selective products like 2,4-D, not total weed killers.

What kills weeds permanently?

Only systemic herbicides that reach and kill roots provide permanent control. Glyphosate, triclopyr, 2,4-D, and dicamba are all systemic. Contact herbicides like vinegar and pelargonic acid only kill foliage – roots survive and weeds regrow.

Is there anything stronger than Roundup?

Roundup contains glyphosate, which is highly effective. For woody weeds, triclopyr-based products or combined formulas can be more effective. Professional-grade concentrated glyphosate products (360g/L or higher) are stronger than ready-to-use Roundup formulations.

Why didn’t my weed killer work?

Common reasons: applied before rain washed it off, weeds were dormant, coverage was incomplete, or you used a contact herbicide on weeds with established roots. Also, some weeds (horsetail, Japanese knotweed) require multiple applications over months.

What’s the strongest natural weed killer?

Honestly, none are strong enough for established weeds. Horticultural vinegar and pelargonic acid are the most effective “natural” options, but they’re contact-only – roots survive. For permanent results, you need systemic herbicides or manual removal.

Can I mix different weed killers for stronger results?

Some combinations work well (glyphosate + triclopyr for tough weeds), but never mix products unless specifically designed to be combined. Incompatible mixtures can reduce effectiveness or create safety hazards. Buy pre-mixed combination products instead.

Stop wasting money on weed killers that don’t work. Our concentrated systemic formula kills tough perennial weeds down to the root in a single application.

Shop Our Strongest Formula →

About the author 

Chelsey

Hey there, I am founder and editor in chief here at Good Grow. I guess I've always known I was going to be a gardener. I'm on a mission to share my UK based weed control & lawn care tips with you all. If you have any queries please post in the comments below.

  • I need to treat a neglected half acre garden, with well established rampant bramble takeover. The problem is that due to the terraced nature and various stone walls much of this is not diggable. I need the most effective and quickest systemic eradicator. Not easy, but have read that a COMBINATON of Triclopor and min 360g/lt Glysophate will definitely do the trick. Is this so? obviously this has to be tackled year on year, but need quick initial clear-out. This is in Devon, so brambles grow most of the year due to the mild, wet climate in Winter.

  • Hello. I really need advice on how to get rid of unwanted grass, shrubs etc. I have a useless piece of area that there’s nothing I can do with but I’m liable for keeping it trim..a job that I cannot do…so I would like advice on strong killer to eliminate them.

  • I have horsetail weed I’ve used300 pounds of rosette and it’s still growing widely,can you help please.

  • I have approx 16-17 square metre of fencing covered in ivy. would you kindly recommend one of the glyphosate weedkillers.
    I have read all reports on them and all of them reckon they are the best but customers seem to have had bad results on some of them,thank you.

  • I found an old plastic bucket of Sodium Chlorate in a friend’s garden shed. I remember using the stuff long ago quite safely from a watering can with a rose sprinkler. I believe the mixture to have been 2 dessert spoons to 10 lt. Please could you verify?
    Kind regards,
    McGillycuddy.

  • My patio has about 600 paving slabs and it an on going hard work to get rid of weeds, because of a little pet dog I use burning flame it become expensive buying gas cannisters.

    My questions; As per your tip using salt.

    Salt, is that normal table salt?

    How much salt, and washing soap per one litre of water.

    How long before my pet dog need to wait before going on the patio?

  • Sodium chlorate was used by the IRA for bombmaking and was banned. (They shifted to Semtex anyway.)

    It likely does not leave a dangerous residue. Potassium chlorate would be a serious fire and explosion hazard but sodium chlorate is deliquescent and absorbs water from the atmosphere preventing this risk.

    • as kids we made cherry bombs for fire works with 50/50 sodium chlorate & sugar – in ping pong balls , them were the days …..

  • I have a 15-gallon spray tank that I use to put down weed killer (ground clear). can you tell me what the ratios would be using vinegar, salt, and dishwashing liquid? Do you need any water?

  • Hi , I have used 20% vinegar successfully before, and have more coming from on line purchasing ( UK ) . However, the sprayer has now ” melted ” due to the acid content. Do you know of any acid resistant sprayers ?
    Would appreciate your advice
    Thanks , Mike

  • We haven’t found anything that works, homemade or store bought. An employee of our electricity company gave us a small sample of the formula they use to keep the power lines free of trees and brush, trying it this weekend, hope it works.

  • I have tried all of this, the only thing that I have found that works is acid that is used to strip paint, like Klean-Strip.

  • How much salt to vinegar to water and the other one that starts with the G I’m a first time home owner with a bad back and have lots of rocks and the former owner told me if I don’t get the weeds out of the rocks the HOA WILL FINE PER WEED so I need to know what kills dandelion weeds to the root.

    • Salt and Vinegar
      Because they’re so dangerous to other plants, it’s best to use salt and vinegar in places like walkways where weeds grow between bricks or pavers — basically, anywhere not adjacent to or within a prime growing area.

      A concentrated pour is generally a good way to go, or you can use a spray bottle with a focused stream rather than a diffused wide spray so the weed killer goes where you want it and nowhere else.

      If you’re using it on, say, a rock wall with a moss problem or a meandering walkway with grass sprouting up, then it might do the trick for you. Still, many experts aren’t a fan of this natural weed-killing solution, so expect your mileage to vary.

      Using Salt to Kill Weeds
      Water-diluted salt will do a good job on its own with weeds if you don’t have vinegar around. Start with a ratio of 3 parts water to 1 part salt — table salt will do — mixing until combined. Apply this carefully to the weed-prone area.

      The trouble is that sodium is a mineral, and the sodium ion won’t vanish, so it can be a problem for anything you plant there down the line, hence why you want to be careful using salt.

      For areas in which you’ll plant again, simply mix a liter of vinegar with a teaspoon of liquid dish detergent. Spray as needed on weeded areas, as there’s no fear of it leaving a toxic residue above or below ground. Just don’t expect it to be as effective as you hope because household vinegar just doesn’t cut it.

      Salt, Vinegar and Soap Mixture
      The University of Maryland Extension’s studies on vinegar being an effective weed killer were done with a 20-percent-acidity vinegar, which can be dangerous since it’s toxic and can burn skin let alone plants. Stick to the usual 5 percent acidity in household vinegar. The same goes for salt — normal, cheap table salt is all you need. The brand doesn’t matter for liquid dish soap either, as you only need a few drops.

      To 1 gallon of white, 5-percent-acidity vinegar, add 2 cups of salt and 1 teaspoon of soap. Stir or shake until all the salt dissolves. Apply it to your weeded area with care. It may take several applications to get down into the root and kill the plant entirely.

      Others recommend a weaker solution of 1 gallon of vinegar, 1 cup of salt and 1 tablespoon of dish detergent. Combine them and use them in the same fashion. Either concoction will keep indefinitely once mixed.

  • Tried pulling them cutting digging spraying the salt vinegar soap and store bought crap a few more times then I should. I need the big guns what kills weeds? I have Clover , dollar weed, sedge, and I call baby dollar weed. Its small leaf 1/4 the size and grows like a mat rather then a stem up. Need to level the yard and start again since heavy equipment tore up the yards

  • If I use a Glyphosate weed killer, how long would it be that i could plant veg etc and would it be harmfull to chickens

    • Keep the chickens away till it’s dry, I wouldn’t let them eat it either, so maybe fence it off or net it over till it’s all dead… Planting veg can be done once the weeds are dead

  • You used to sell a weed kill dispenser. Unfortunately the little red “plug” got blasted out of mine and it no longer works. Is there any chance I could buy a new dispenser. (It’s the easiest I’ve ever used)
    Here’s hoping

  • The back entry to our house is overgrown with all sorts of weeds, but we also have lots of dogs and cats, so I NEED a animal safe weed killer, please can you help! Thank you Loretta Bossons

  • I need advice on how to permanently get rid of bindweed. It plagues my border every year. I have tried digging it out but any small amount left comes back 10 fold! Annoyingly it is in with a lot of perennial stock I have built up over the years. What is the best solution?

    • You can apply a systemic weed killer selectively with a paint brush or other accurate application device, a sprayer or watering can will likely result in drift to perennials you would I assume like to keep… Most strong weed killers only kill plants that absorb it through the leaves (foliage), they don’t soak into the ground and kill everything

  • Hi
    I am inundated with mares tail. The roots are deep and long and it survives all weed killers I have tried.
    Any solution please?

  • I have a ground cover weed I can’t get rid of have tried everything an glyphosate vinegar salt ground clear kills all roundup and another guy used stuff to guarantee it still no results please help don’t know ur costs. An the stuff I used I mixed it strong

  • IF I PAINT WEED KILLER ON THE STEMS OF AN INVASIVE BULLRUSH, WILL IT GO INTO MY POND THROUGH THE ROOTS AND KILL MY FISH. SCARED TO PULL IT OUT AS IT MEANT WRECK MY LINER !!

  • A lot of sad people on here wanting to kill, kill, kill, plants that they dont like to look of. All pesticides should be banned. Introducing toxic chemicals into the environment is a Pandoras box, once the genie gets out you cant put it back. Glyphosate…yes all those convenient ‘truths’ that you have been told about it originate from the manufacturer ‘Monsanto’. A huge disreputable company effectively controlled by one man. Glyphosate has now turned up in water supplies and at least one person in USA succesfully sued Monsanto for causing cancer in his body. Weeding is to some extent an arrogant human desire to see everything neat and tidy and it will come back to bite you. Guess who markets those GM crop seeds that are not affected by Glyphosate. How do you now get rid of those rampant ‘weed’ varieties that are now resistant?
    I havnt used weed killer for decades, my garden has brambles, nettles, bindweed all under a certain control but left to feed bees etc from their flowers.

    • Some weeds are invasive and need to be eliminated but I agree. However not everyone does, one mans weeds is another mans bramble jam… Or another mans thorn infested dog / child… or as you say a bumble bees dinner!

      Weed killers have there uses for sure, maybe not so much for mass spraying on crops, as always, read the label for safe use.

    • I believed the same as you until our dog got stuck inside our brambles after retrieving a ball. The pain she suffered, the scars that are still there and the vets bill changed my mind, what if it was a child? We did our best at cutting them back but they just kept coming.

      We used some weed killer and now they are gone, I do miss the bees that hovered but we planted some other bushes in their stead and slowly but surely the bees are back.

      Sometimes strong weed killers are useful, I still err on the side of caution but I’m glad the brambles are gone

  • I have an area of about 20 ft x 15 it is covered in pebbles with a black sheeting under them, it was all neat and lovely when I bought the house, within a couple of months it was covered everywhere in weeds and grass. I’ve spent a fortune on weed killer but to no avail. I just don’t know what to do with it I’m a lady of 68 years, I haven’t the money to have it tarmac or anything so please could you advise me I would be so grateful

    • Sadly, you cannot stop nature, weeds will come in from neighbours etc. The best you can do is keep the area clean and free from debris and use a weed killer.

  • Hi I’m plagued by mares-tail so much so that I have given up planting anything in my veg plot for this year as it was taking over my vegetable patch last year.
    I’ve completely covered my plot in fabric weed kill and weighted it down with spare linoleum as I’m trying to kill it by stopping the light getting to it.
    It’s also between my slabs etc but my next door neighbours have it too but do not deal with it.
    Is there anything that I can use for my paths that would be really effective?

    • Glyphosate will work but will require several treatments over the course of a season or more. Kurtail is specifically designed for mares tail and it may work better

  • When is the best time to weed killer?
    I don’t want to use it at a time when it’s useless
    Does it need sunlight to work?
    What kind of temperature is needed ?
    Im not going to put it out when there is frost on the ground

    • When is the best time to weed killer?
      On a warm, wind free day but follow your providers instructions

      Does it need sunlight to work?
      The weeds need to be actively growing.

      What kind of temperature is needed ?
      Best applied between March and Novemeber

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